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Moschofilero: Greece's Most Fragrant White Grape

  • Writer: Griechische Weine
    Griechische Weine
  • Dec 9, 2022
  • 7 min read

Updated: 1 hour ago

Traditional stone house against a mountain backdrop on the Mantinia plain at moonrise
The Mantinia plain at dusk. Photo: ulrichstill / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0 DE

In a nutshell

  • Colour: White – dry, plus rosé and sparkling

  • Name: Greek Μοσχοφίλερο – "Moscho" (fragrant, musk-like) plus "Filero", the name of the whole grape family it belongs to

  • Origin: the Arcadian plateau on the Peloponnese, first documented in 1601 – one of the oldest documented grape varieties in Greece

  • Appellation: PDO Mantinia, minimum 85% Moschofilero (Asproudes permitted alongside), elevation 600–800 m

  • Berry: pink to greyish skin – yet almost exclusively vinified as white wine, comparable to Pinot Gris

  • Typical: citrus, green fruit, rose petals – light body, lively acidity

  • Comparison: Greece's answer to Gewürztraminer or Muscat: aromatic, but finished dry

All scores on this page come from our own tastings; we do not sell wine. Where we quote a

figure like "from 23 of our own tastings", we count wines that are varietally pure or at

least half Moschofilero.


What is Moschofilero?

Moschofilero belongs to the Fileri family – a small group of closely related, pink-skinned

Greek grape varieties whose exact ancestry remains scientifically unresolved (more on the

close relative Fileri further below). The name gives away the key trait: "Moscho" stands for

the intense, musk-like fragrance that makes Moschofilero the most aromatic member of the

whole family.

The variety's home is the Arcadian plateau in the mountainous centre of the Peloponnese,

around the ancient site of Mantineia. First documented in 1601, Moschofilero ranks among the

oldest named grape varieties in Greece – and is at the same time one of its most successful

domestic export stories: the variety covers roughly 1,000 hectares nationwide, with clear

concentrations in Tegea, Mantinia and Levidi.


What does Moschofilero taste like?

The leitmotif is fragrance: citrus, green fruit, and above all rose petals – an aroma

that places Moschofilero in the same stylistic corner as Gewürztraminer or Muscat, without

adopting their residual sweetness. Almost all our tastings are finished dry.

Ripe pink-grey Moschofilero grapes on the old vine
Moschofilero grapes shortly before harvest. Photo: Elisavetch / Wikimedia Commons, public domain

What defines the variety is the contrast between an intense nose and a light, often almost

mineral body: the grapes are harvested late and ripen slowly in the cool elevation of the

Arcadian plateau, producing wines with lively acidity that balances the perfumed bouquet. A

well-made Moschofilero is never heavy – "flower meadow on the nose, backbone on the palate"

describes the variety better than any fruit metaphor.

One peculiarity: despite its pink-grey berry skin (comparable to Pinot Gris), Moschofilero is

overwhelmingly vinified as white wine – only a growing minority of producers leave the

must briefly on the skins to make a rosé, which in Greece is occasionally even sold as

"κόκκινο κρασί" (red wine), even though under German wine law it would count as rosé or even

white.


PDO Mantinia – the homeland

The PDO Mantinia requires a minimum of 85 percent Moschofilero (the remaining 15 percent

may be filled with Asproudes, though in practice most wines are varietally pure). The zone

sits on the Arcadian plateau, a highland at 600 to 800 metres – one of the cooler wine-growing

elevations in Greece, which directly benefits the variety's aromatic, acid-driven style.

In our own best-of list, the PDO shows a narrow but steep spread: from 94 points

(Ktima Tselepou's sparkling Amalia, more on that below) down to 76 points for a bottle

over 30 years old – the range of an appellation that shows both the variety's showpiece and

its ageing limit.

Around the PDO lies a considerably larger growing area: PGI Arkadia directly adjoining

(our second-strongest group by note count), PGI Peloponnese as a broader origin

designation, plus scattered outliers such as PGI Evia in central Greece – a sign that

Moschofilero has long since grown beyond its Arcadian homeland.


The styles

White – the standard case

The vast majority of our notes are dry white wine, usually vinified in stainless steel to

preserve the floral aromatics as unfiltered as possible. The **Mantinia 2021 from Nemea

Winery** (88 points) is a good entry point: uncomplicated, varietally true, without

embellishment. Anyone wanting to get to know the PDO in its most typical form will find it in

the Mantineia 2021 from Vervenioti Winery (90 points), with the floral notes so

characteristic of Mantinia, or in the Mantineia 2021 from Ktima Tselepou (89 points),

which marks the floral end of the spectrum even more clearly – at the cost of a little

minerality.

Bottle of Nemea Winery Mantinia 2021
Nemea Winery Mantinia 2021, an uncomplicated entry point. Our own photo

Outside the PDO, the variety shows more range: the Mister Helios from Ktima Kalogri

marks a hinge function between traditional PDO Mantinia style and the more experimental PGI

Arkadia wines – two independent tastings of the same 2020 vintage scored 92 and 93 points,

a rare demonstration of consistency over time. The **Kalderimi 2020 from Panagiotopoulos

Wines** (91 points) comes from a small, locally rooted site in Trifilia that you would

normally only encounter travelling through the region.

Bottle of Ktima Kalogri Mister Helios 2020
Ktima Kalogri Mister Helios 2020, a hinge between PDO and PGI. Our own photo

Rosé – the growing side style

Roughly a quarter of our dominant notes are rosé, and the share is growing: the pink-grey

berry skin benefits the variety here too, with wines ranging from delicate salmon pink to a

deeper, almost reddish tone. The Juliet & Romeo 2020 (93 points) and the **Dialogues 2019

from Ktima Kalogri** (93 points) mark the top of this style. For anyone wanting to go deeper

into this facet of the variety: our own deep dive

was originally the very first tasting report on the variety – written before this overview

even existed.

Bottle of Juliet & Romeo 2020, wax seal
Juliet & Romeo 2020, one of the top rosé wines. Our own photo

Sparkling – the exception with altitude

The cool elevation of the Arcadian plateau also suits the Méthode Traditionnelle: the

Amalia 2018 from Ktima Tselepou is, at 94 points, the highest-scoring Moschofilero in

our entire database – brioche and citrus notes, with the variety's typical red-fruit

undertone in the background. A second sparkling wine, the Prelude 2019 from Milia Riza

(90 points), confirms that the variety is more than a footnote in this style.


How does Moschofilero age?

An honest answer: not particularly well. Our oldest bottle, the Atelier 1994 from Cavino

– won at an online auction – came in at 76 points: the cork still held, the colour had

turned deep yellow, but none of the original floral freshness remained after more than 30

years. Moschofilero lives on its fragrance, and that fragrance fades – anyone wanting to get

to know the variety should drink it young.


Moschofilero and its close relative Fileri

One caveat belongs to the honesty of this page: whether Fileri is the ancestor, the

descendant, or merely a differently coloured terroir variant of Moschofilero has never been

scientifically resolved. In practice, the two names often appear side by side on the same

labels, sometimes even for the same wine across different vintages. The **Fileri white from

Nestor Winery** (PGI Trifilia) shows how close the two sit together: reserved on the nose,

gaining mineral depth on the palate – stylistically almost indistinguishable from a classic

Moschofilero.


What does Moschofilero go with?

Moschofilero brings what suits light, aromatic cooking: floral freshness, lively acidity and

moderate alcohol. The rose-petal aromatics pair beautifully with Asian cuisine – especially

with a touch of chilli or ginger, which the acidity handles confidently. With **seafood and

light fish, Moschofilero is a reliable choice, as it is with light goat's-cheese

starters**. The sparkling style works as an aperitif, the rosé with grilled vegetables and

light meat.

Rule of thumb: the younger the wine, the better – Moschofilero is a variety for the moment,

not for the cellar.


The best Moschofilero wines of our tastings

All wines on this list are at least half Moschofilero – from 23 of our own tastings.

A note on the scale: our older articles still use the 20-point scale; all scores on this page

have been converted to our 100-point scale.


What to pour tonight

In one sentence: Moschofilero is Greece's most fragrant grape variety – aromatic like a

Gewürztraminer, but lean and finished dry.

If you haven't tried the variety yet, start with a classic PDO Mantinia wine like the

Vervenioti Mantineia. For a deeper dive, try the sparkling Amalia or one of the rosé

wines from our


Read on: our Moschofilero deep dive

This page gives the overview – we cover the rosé facet of the variety in depth in our own

article:


Never miss a new tasting

We are constantly tasting new Greek wines – from the affordable everyday bottle to the icon

wine – and we write every note ourselves. If you do not want to miss any:

Free of charge, cancel at any time.


Image credits

Landscape photo via Wikimedia Commons: ulrichstill – Mantinea, Arcadia, Peloponnese, Greece

(CC BY-SA 3.0 DE). Grape photo: Elisavetch – Moschofilero (public domain). The three bottle

photos are from our own tastings.

 
 
 

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