Nikolaou Estate – Moschofilero 2021

This Moschofilero from Nikolaou Estate in Corinth, on the northern edge of the PGI Peloponnese, drives you to the brink of despair. The wine has oxidative notes you'd normally only encounter in aged wines. Aromatically, you initially think you're somewhere in the last decade. But then fennel and cumin push through, and you stumble upon what is actually quite remarkable tannin structure, even though the wine simultaneously comes across as very straightforward – partly thanks to the typical 12% alcohol. Sounds rather contradictory? It is. And let's not even get started on the fruit that emerges in the second wave of the finish. This isn't a wine for contemplative savoring – it's one for lively argument. But the votes in favor of an excellent 90 points carry the day. And the prize for the most confusing label? This wine wins that one hands down.