Ktima Gerovassiliou — Avaton 2017

The Avaton 2017 from Ktima Gerovassiliou (PGI Epanomi, 14.5% ABV). We last tasted it in 2021 and, at the tender age of just four years, had already awarded it 94 points. At that time, it presented beautifully clear red fruit on the nose, underscored by subtle sage notes. On the palate, distinct nougat emerged, embedded in wonderfully fine tannins that drifted neither into exaggerated silkiness nor into coarseness. A wine that was fantastic to drink -- only on the finish did the alcohol dominate a touch too much. Four years later, at the tasting in spring 2025, the wine had changed remarkably. Much of the once so attractive nougat character had dissipated. The nose is now much more narrowly focused on red fruits, accompanied by some vegetal notes such as beetroot and slightly bitter hints of orange zest or kumquat. On the palate, an extreme concentration of eucalyptus aromas stands out, of a kind I have rarely encountered in Greek wines -- one would most readily think of an Australian Cabernet. Overall considerably less aggressive than the 2021 tasting, yet no longer quite as filigree as at the first encounter. The alcohol remains relatively noticeable. Ultimately 92 points -- the wine has not evolved in the hoped-for direction. Several days after the tasting, I revisited it to see how the wines develop with oxygen. With extended air contact, the nougat on the 2017 does indeed return. However, it quickly shows oxidative notes and rapidly becomes the lesser choice -- dropping to 90 points. In my view, a rather concerning development -- it underscores the difficulty I frequently have in catching the peak drinking window of red wines from Gerovassiliou.