Ktima Gerovassiliou — Malagousia 2020

Great wines always come with a story. And that is undoubtedly the case with the Malagousia from Gerovassiliou. What we know for certain is that the Malagousia vine was cultivated in the first half of the 20th century in western Greece along the Gulf of Corinth, around the towns of Nafpaktos and Mesolongi. It is undisputed that Evangelos Gerovassiliou, working as an oenologist at Porto Carras, discovered the grape's potential and helped it achieve its current fame. He first released Malagousia as a single-variety wine — not merely as a blending partner — in 1994 (and that very first vintage still showed remarkably well in 2016).

Since then, the rise has been meteoric. Ten years ago, plantings were estimated at under 200 hectares; today the figure is said to exceed 500. This brings with it the danger that Malagousia could slip into a Pinot Grigio role — an easy-drinking summer wine without much ambition. That would be a real shame, because Malagousia has a great deal to offer. It is usually counted among the aromatic varieties. Comparing it to Muscat, however, does it an injustice. The closest parallel is actually Müller-Thurgau. Like that grape, Malagousia proves extremely versatile depending on how it is grown and vinified. Muscat-like notes tend to appear above an alcohol level of 13.2%, pushing aside the more typical floral and citrus-driven aromas.

It is precisely in this fruity-floral style that Malagousia has enormous potential. It is the perfect wine for anyone who actually enjoys aromatic varieties but doesn't quite dare to admit it. Because when done right, a Malagousia like this delivers more depth and complexity than a Müller-Thurgau ever could. And Evangelos Gerovassiliou very clearly does a great deal right.

When tasting truly great wines, there is almost always a certain aha moment that makes it instantly clear you have something special in the glass. Here, that moment came the second the cork was pulled. Suddenly: raised eyebrows, astonished looks. A wave of peach aroma poured into the room and filled it in an instant. Ktima Gerovassiliou takes the harvest timing for Malagousia very seriously in order to avoid oxidation of the terpenes, which can suppress fruity aromas in exactly that way. Despite some delays with Greek grape varieties during the 2020 harvest, they clearly hit the sweet spot perfectly here. We have not seen peach fruit this pure and vivid in previous vintages. A touch of green apple joins in — you could fool Riesling fans with this. The floral notes are only very subtle, gardenia at most. And there is a hint of mint as well.

On the palate, the wine presents pleasant grapefruit and a beautifully arching acidity. There is still the faintest trace of carbon dioxide. The alcohol of 13.5% (which here does not come with the over-ripeness that brings muscat-like tones) and the restrained use of oak (25%, old barrels) lend the wine a lovely creaminess.

If there is a Greek white wine right now — one not made from Assyrtiko — that has the makings of a cult wine, it is surely the Malagousia from Ktima Gerovassiliou. The backstory, consistently high quality, recognizability, and clear stylistic vision all come together here. And the 2020 vintage underscores these ambitions once more: without a doubt a phenomenal wine that deserves 95 points.