Ktima Gerovassiliou — Avaton 2017

When it comes to indigenous grape varieties, Evangelos Gerovassiliou naturally focuses on Malagousia — the white variety he himself revived — on the white wine front. For reds, he has devoted himself to Limnio (pronounced "Limn-YO"). Gerovassiliou began experimenting with this cuvée in the mid-1990s, later adding Mavrotragano as well (since 2017 in a 60%, 20%, 20% ratio). The first bottles hit the market in 2002. So while a single variety takes center stage among indigenous white grapes, it's a blend that carries the flag for the native reds. The 2017 Avaton presents beautifully clear red fruit on the nose, underpinned by subtle sage notes. On the palate, distinct nougat joins in. The whole flavor experience is wrapped in wonderfully fine tannins that drift neither into exaggerated silkiness nor into anything clunky. A wine that drinks fantastically well and makes an outstanding food companion. Only on the finish does the alcohol (14.5%) dominate just a touch too much. How should one rate a wine like this? What's clear is that Evangelos Gerovassiliou has pulled off a remarkable feat with this cuvée: blending a grape variety already known in ancient Greece with even more obscure Greek varieties into a wine that comes across as thoroughly international. The ruby red alone transports you straight to Tuscany — and every sip then zigzags you through the Old World all over again. The question is whether and how one wants to reward that. Some see the distinctiveness lost and would wish for a clearer, genuinely Greek profile. On the other hand, this wine consistently outperformed other wines from various origins that sail past the 90-point mark with relative ease. And that's why, in the end, we consider the verdict outstanding and 94 points to be very well deserved.