Mylonas Winery — Retsina NV

The variety Savatiano and the production method Retsina are almost synonymous — and often equated with the idea of making cheap wine drinkable with pine resin. But the reputation is changing, and Mylonas Winery has been instrumental in rehabilitating both the grape and the style. Their Retsina, a 100% Savatiano at 12% alcohol, is much more subtle than other examples in the category. In a tasting that included the intensely piney Retsina from Oinopoieio Nestor (87 points) and the basic Lidl Retsina (82 points), the Mylonas stood out for its restraint — almost too subtle for some tasters. But the long aftertaste ultimately secured it a very good 89 points. It sits in an interesting middle ground: more refined than the resin-forward styles, yet not as wildly complex as the herb-infused Pithos Retsina from Andreou Winery (93 points) or the Assyrtiko-based Retsinalism from Patistis Wines. For those who want a Retsina that whispers rather than shouts, this is a compelling choice.