Tsantali – Kanenas Rosé 2020

Color-wise, this is already the counterpart to the recently reviewed rosé from the other large producer Costa Lazaridi. The wine is very close to what you'd be served as κόκκινο κρασί in a Greek taverna. But stick your nose in the glass and you'll quickly realize this is no ordinary table wine. The almost exuberant aroma of overripe strawberries makes that abundantly clear. On the palate, the impression continues: the spiciness of the Mavroudi and peppery notes from the Syrah form a very intense combination. The alcohol of a notable 13.5% is beautifully integrated, lending a creamy mouthfeel. There's barely any perceptible CO2, so the overall impression is hardly fresh but rather quite sophisticated. Not really an easy-drinking summer wine, but certainly one with a lot of potential as an aperitif or as an interesting food companion. As such, it absolutely deserves the label of excellent and 89 points. Others might even go higher. What holds us back, though, are slight medicinal notes on the finish. The roughly 600 hectares of vineyard area dedicated to the Kanenas series do mean, however, that the wine is available for under €10. Especially compared to its more popular, darker big brother, this is a very pleasant surprise in this price range.