The Best Carginan in the World?

"Dry January" is now a few days behind us, so it's time to write about wine again. And we still have something to catch up on from the old year, 2022. Because the last Greek wine of 2022 had something special in store, and that deserves a report.

Fitting the occasion, we decided to pit a Greek wine against an international "icon wine" once more – namely one of the best Carignan wines on the market, the Vigno Tequilemu Vineyard Field Blend 2018 from Garage Wine Co, from the Maule Valley, Chile. 99 Robert Parker points are, of course, first and foremost very impressive!

The ΡΟΕΣ Carignan Vieilles Vignes 2018 from Ktima Oinotropai, though, can also point to old vines that are surely unique for Greece (about 40 rather than 70 years, but still) and even comes from a smaller plot still (0.4 rather than 0.75 ha). Yiannis Karakasis MW gave the wine a solid 90+ points a year after harvest, and fellow Greek wine critic Simos Georgopoulos was even more enthusiastic, with 9/10 points and the verdict that it's currently one of the most interesting Greek wines made from international varieties.

Comparing the two wines was indeed thoroughly fascinating. Neither, after all, comes from a country typically associated with this variety – you'd sooner think of Priorat or southern France when you hear Carignan. But that's where the similarities end. The Vigno 2018 is an unbelievably cool, downright chilled-out wine. Only 13% alcohol, robust acidity and hearty tannin make this wine not exactly approachable, and explain why the non-professional critics on Cellartracker.com sometimes have such difficulties with it. It isn't closed off, though, more in-your-face challenging. Give the wine more time, however, and it shows its true greatness. Because despite this angularity, it ultimately keeps making you want more, thanks to enormous juiciness, and keeps hinting at subtle notes. Hence: magnificent 94 points.

The ΡΟΕΣ 2018, by contrast, takes a completely different approach – though it's by no means quiet either! The 15.5% alcohol is nowhere near hidden, hitting you full-on together with nutty aromas. Alongside that, though, there's still good acidity, a very decent portion of fruit – and above all a finish whose length has absolutely nothing to hide from the international cult wine. This wine, too, therefore deserves magnificent 94 points.

Wines you absolutely have to have drunk? No. More something for freaks who enjoy a challenge. For Carginan fans, though, they're actually a must – and incredibly exciting to drink side by side in particular.