Ktima Gerovassiliou — Malagousia 2021

The Malagousia Single Vineyard 2021 from Ktima Gerovassiliou – the estate of Evangelos Gerovassiliou, the man who saved the Malagousia grape variety – hails from PGI Epanomi and was tasted as part of an extensive Malagousia comparative tasting. At a fairly high 13.5% alcohol, it is supported by very consistent acidity as its structural backbone. On the palate, the wine is round, builds gradually, and the finish emerges slowly but steadily. It is in this development that the wine's greatest strength lies.

Still, it disappoints somewhat – the 2020 vintage, with its clear peach fruit, had earned a phenomenal 95 points. By comparison, the fruity aromas here are already very restrained – clearly lagging behind the Geometria from Lafazanis Winery – and even struggle repeatedly with floral overlay. It is still an excellent wine at 91 points, but it cannot match the outstanding wines of this tasting in this vintage. This is a bit surprising, given that the cuvée with Assyrtiko – the white estate wine – from the same year does deliver the varietal fruit you'd expect. So bottle variation cannot be entirely ruled out. The Ktima Gerovassiliou white seems, at least for the moment, to be the safer buying recommendation.