Greek Sauvignon Blanc

There are two ways to meet the cold, damp fog front just before Christmas with wine. On the one hand, you could of course retreat by the fireplace, or with a crackling-fire playlist from Spotify in the background, with a cosy red. Instead, though, I want to warm myself up a little today by conjuring memories of warmer times. It was one of those glorious sunny days this September that spoiled us a little after a summer that had been thoroughly rained out. To celebrate, we opened a few bottles of Sauvignon Blanc from Greece in a small circle, which we enjoyed with Mediterranean finger food. Perhaps some of you reading this would also like to be transported south with exotic aromas for a while…

The variety plays a major role in Greece too, as it does everywhere in the world with enough sun. There, though, it's known above all as a blending partner for Assyrtiko, especially in PGI Drama. In that combination, the Sauvignon Blanc brings fruit to the autochthonous variety's freshness (see for instance here (in German) and here (in German)). But as the following examples show, Greek Sauvignon Blanc also has considerable potential standing alone in the spotlight...

Sauvignon Blanc 2020 from Alpha Estate

We start with this variety's entry-level wine (more below on the oak-aged version) from Alpha Estate (in German). It delivers exactly what you'd expect from a Sauvignon Blanc. A very appealing nose of exotic fruits, above all lychee. Alongside that, though, there are also distinctly floral aromas, especially poppy and orange blossom. On the palate, the wine shows a pleasant balance of tannin and acidity. Outstanding 16.5 points.

Via this link (in German), you can order the wine from the current 2021 vintage for €13.70, which also supports this website.

Earinos (Sauvignon Blanc) 2020 from Petralona Winery

Sauvignon Blanc is famously divisive. Picked early, plenty of people find the grassy notes recall cat's pee a touch too vividly. In its fully ripe version, quite a few find it kitschy. Anyone looking for a completely different style somewhere in between could try this wine from the small organic estate in PGI Chalkidiki. It's a wine for those who don't mind things getting demanding once in a while. Even the almost-yellow colour hints that this spontaneously fermented, unfiltered Sauvignon Blanc is more for orange-wine lovers. If you just want to be uncomplicatedly spoiled by exotic fruit from this variety, you're in the wrong place here. On the nose, very strong lactic notes show up – yoghurt, goat cheese (malolactic fermentation was clearly not handled with kid gloves here) – alongside honey and sweet fruit like overripe plums, apricots and figs, aromas you'd sooner associate with dessert wines. It's not nutty yet, but straw, peat and quince show up on the finish. On top of that, black currant appears the moment you swallow. Among the fruit, lychee and watermelon are also noticeable. The tannin is fairly demanding, but not overdone. A wine that can certainly hold its own against heartier food too, and would pair well with, say, a nicely braised hare. Outstanding 16.5 points.

You can order it, for instance, here for €11.50.

Sauvignon Blanc 2020 from Ktima Gerovassiliou

Now we come to the two Greek heavyweights on the international market. Two wines from winemakers with international renown, both relying on oak, yet creating very different wines in doing so. The Sauvignon Blanc from Ktima Gerovassiliou (in German) hits you straight away with expressive exotic fruit on the nose, above all ripe nectarines stand out. Alongside that, though, there's also a decent portion of lemon basil, which stops the whole thing drifting into kitsch. Greenish notes are correspondingly present, along with a touch of liquorice too, but very well integrated into the fruit. On the palate, all of that is joined by a very subtle brioche note from the oak, which rounds the wine off nicely. Anyone who fundamentally dislikes the variety certainly won't be converted here, but will object that so much exoticism doesn't really deserve so much elegance. We, however, think: Magnificent 17.5 points.

You can normally get this wine through our partner shop too. For €18.95. There, though, it's sold out. Via this link (in German), you can at least get in touch. And so at least a comparison figure for the price is now on the table.

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Kaliva (Sauvignon Blanc Fumé) 2019 from Alpha Estate

The oak announces itself somewhat more clearly on the nose here, in the elevated version of Sauvignon Blanc from Alpha Estate (in German), than in the wine from Gerovassiliou (in German). In return, the exotic fruit is dialled down somewhat. On the palate, a distinct acidity shows up, citrus aromas predominate, with a touch of green apple. An extra 0.5% alcohol also adds a creaminess befitting the elegance. The finish is long, here too with rather green notes, asparagus and rhubarb. Altogether, a very well-rounded affair, which as such likewise deserves magnificent 17.5 points.

Via this link (in German), you can order the wine from the current 2020 vintage for €16.65, which is really unbelievably cheap, and support this website in the process.

With that in mind... bon appétit!