Lafazanis Winery — Geometria Malagouzia 2021

The Geometria Malagouzia from Lafazanis Winery, a PGI Peloponnes wine, sparked some heated debate during an extensive Malagousia comparative tasting. The 2020 vintage had already scored a borderline very good 89 points — it stood out at the time for its generous fruitiness but remained in the shadow of the Malagousia from Ktima Gerovassiliou. The fruit was more diffuse, not as focused on peach, floral notes not entirely suppressed, the overall impression less clear. On the palate, acidity and finish were merely average, at a respectable 12% alcohol.

In direct comparison with the many competitors, however, the 2021 played an entirely different game. It was the most expressive wine of the tasting, with clear nectarine aromatics. On the palate, it presents a sweetness comparable to its predecessor. It lacks acidity, though, which compromises the interplay but at the same time makes it more easygoing. The finish is at least medium-length, but by no means complex. The acidity builds initially, then drops off again, leaving a slightly mineral, possibly even metallic impression on the finish. Not that you really notice, because you're already reaching for the next sip. This wine triggers much the same discussion about how wine should actually be evaluated as its red counterpart does: no great artistry, but incredibly delicious. At the recent new edition of the 50 Great Greek Wines, it made it to 6th place in the blind tasting, leaving every single PDO Nemea wine behind. As a compromise among the differing tendencies of the tasters, an excellent 90 points. In terms of complexity, the wine actually sits below that, yet at the same time there's no question that this is the most drinkable, most moreish wine tasted this entire year. For the average wine drinker, the perfect summer wine, available at €9.99 a bottle.