Lacules Estate — Merlot 2019

The Merlot 2019 from Lacules Estate on the Peloponnese was tasted as part of a blind tasting where nobody except the organiser knew which wines or vintages were being presented. Right from the pour, it impresses with its concentration. The nose comes across as almost perfumed, with the aromatic spectrum leaning towards the floral side, though dark berries also play a role. On the palate, the wine was still quite astringent in early 2023 — right from the first sip. Yet the aromatics were already fully present, dominated by cassis and vanilla.

Also on the table in this blind tasting was the Château Bellevue 2019 from Saint-Émilion — likewise 100% Merlot and at 14.5% alcohol. But there can be no question that the Frenchman comes off second best here: simply a thin, watery affair by comparison, far too harmless, more of a decent quaffing wine. With its density, the Lacules Estate can be credited with far greater ageing potential. It will undoubtedly continue to develop until 2035, and there is no reason why it shouldn't hold at this level through to 2050. 94+ points — it will be exciting to see how far this journey goes. For context: René Gabriel awarded the 2017 Merlot from Lacules Estate 96 points.