Kokotos Estate — Kokotos Estate 2020

Pouring the Kokotos Estate 2020, a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot from PGI Attika, there was an aromatic explosion of all kinds of red and dark fruits on the table. On the palate, the wine was serious but juicy, with just the right amount of sweet and salty waves dancing on top of a very solid foundation of acidity and already quite polished tannins. Not quite as phenomenal as the exceptional 2017 vintage of this wine, for sure. But this 2020 vintage once again confirms that the Kokotos Estate is, by far, the best Left Bank Bordeaux from Greece. And this PGI Attika wine is arguably much better than many of the classified wines from that famous French appellation. I also like the fact that the winery has increased the Merlot component to 20% after noticing improvements in quality from this vineyard, which was planted in 2002. The wine is now less rustic and more refined. When we tasted the 2017 vintage alongside Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, that refinement was the only parameter where the Saint-Julien Grand Cru Classé had an advantage. Now, the Kokotos Estate resembles more a Grand Cru Classé from Saint-Julien than from Saint-Estèphe. There is just one thing to keep an eye on: the wine is already so approachable, thanks to the Merlot to some extent I would guess. I am not sure whether it will improve further — it lost quite a bit of quality over the next few days after opening. If the winery gets that balance of aging potential and approachable character right in the future, even the best wines from Pauillac and Margaux will have serious competition from Greece. For now, this outstanding Kokotos Estate 2020 earns 96 points.