Alpha Estate — Malagouzia 2020

The Malagouzia Single Vineyard Turtles 2020 from Alpha Estate in the PGI Florina was tasted again as part of a large Malagousia comparative tasting – it had already been reviewed the previous year. Back then, it came across as an interpretation of Malagouzia that leans more toward the herbal spectrum, though not as dominantly so as the version from Giannikos. Compared to that wine, it's noticeably rounder, giving the fruity and floral potential of the grapes enough room to breathe. Structure and finish are also very pleasant. What was missing back then for real excitement was a true sense of identity.

With the second bottle, opened a year later, the nose told a different story: house-typical brioche notes were clearly in the foreground – consistent with the observation on the estate's Assyrtiko, where an extra year of maturity also allowed the lees work to come through much more aromatically. At 13% alcohol, the wine has a slightly creamy impression but enough acidity. That acidity isn't showy but clearly present and well integrated – a definite plus. On the nose, herbaceousness remains noticeable, though now fruity notes – ripe windfall fruit – can also be detected. On the palate, however, the wine's minerality makes it come across a touch too composed for that impression. Fruit is lacking, even though the back end is very pleasant again and distinguished by a long finish. An excellent 91 points. The new 2021 vintage is available for €8.50.