Alpha Estate — Aghia Kiriaki 2018

This Assyrtiko from Alpha Estate in the PGI Florina was tasted as part of a blind tasting of the best mainland Assyrtikos. On the nose, there's already more minerality than you'd typically expect from a mainland Assyrtiko, and on the palate a certain elegance confirms itself, stemming from extended fine lees ageing. A wine that certainly pairs well with oysters — but as a thirst-quencher on a balmy summer evening, it's more likely to disappoint. And that goes even for those who would normally forgive a focus on structure over fruit. Because somehow elegance here — actually untypical for Alpha Estate — comes at the expense of complexity. The finish is certainly long, as you'd expect, but simply a touch too dominated by rather plain green apple to truly excite. Right at the very end, some plum emerges and, if you wait even longer, a burst of nutty aromas that pack a punch — at some point you could almost believe you'd just taken a sip of Champagne. But would you, and let's be fair here, even notice that if you weren't reverently waiting for it? Somewhat disappointing given the producer, but taken as a whole, still an excellent 90 points. If you don't need fruit in your Assyrtiko and are looking for an outrageously affordable alternative to the notoriously expensive mineral-driven versions from Santorini, you'll be very happy here. If, however, you want to win over guests who aren't specifically Graecophile for Greek wine, you'd be better off reaching for the Assyrtiko from Kir-Yianni, produced just a few kilometres away. The wine is available for €17.99.