Alpha Estate — Aghia Kiriaki 2018

The Aghia Kiriaki 2018 from Alpha Estate (PGI Florina) caused a bit of embarrassment during this year's blind tasting of mainland Assyrtiko. This was the backup bottle of the same wine that had received a somewhat perplexed 90 points the year before. The extra year of maturity seems to have done the wine a world of good: what back then could only be teased out with a great deal of creativity and goodwill now came through loud and clear — an almost overripe fruit character that, paired with the wine's creaminess, makes brilliant sense and evokes a noble impression that none of the other wines could match.

Even if half a point might have to be chalked up to the day's form or the tasting context, honesty demands that this time a clearly magnificent 93 points be awarded. The wine is at its drinking window! The 2019 vintage is available for €17.99 a bottle — anyone who buys two bottles and sets one aside for a year can test whether a similar improvement unfolds within twelve months.