My Picture of Cretan Wine: A Mosaic of Bottles
- Griechische Weine
- Mar 30
- 20 min read
Updated: 21 hours ago
Crete's wine culture stretches back over 4,000 years and is currently experiencing a fascinating renaissance. In this article, I'd like to offer a snapshot of some developments as I see them. I'll do so by pointing to wines I've had in my glass recently — wines that, taken together, paint a picture of where Cretan wine stands right now.
This is, mind you, not a systematic survey — more of a mosaic, assembled from the bottles that have lingered longest in my memory over the past two years. Zoom in close and you'll see individual, disconnected labels; but with a little distance and a measure of goodwill — or if you squint a little — a pleasing picture emerges, or so I hope.
For a second, more personal perspective on the dynamic evolution of Cretan wine, we warmly recommend Peter Pharos's recent piece on Tim Atkin's website. The two takes overlap in places, but Pharos sets his own priorities as well.
White Grape Varieties
The Vidiano Grape — Single-Varietal Examples
Let's begin with the Vorinos 2020 from the small, biodynamically farmed Silva Daskalaki estate. At just 12% alcohol, it is at once astonishingly lean and creamy. The estate favours spontaneous fermentation, yet the wine shows crystal-clear structure. With incisive acidity on the finish, it is an impressive demonstration of the grape's potential. An excellent wine that perfectly showcases the variety's typical combination of minerality and expressive fruit — 92 points!
The Enstikto 2018 is sourced from older, higher-altitude vines at the same estate. Weighing in at a more powerful 13.5%, it is rounded out with 10% Chardonnay. The new French oak is handled with surprising restraint – not a hint of butter. Instead, quince and grassy notes take the lead. That said, the minerality so characteristic of Vidiano recedes somewhat into the background here. A wine that calls for heartier fare. 90 points!
An intriguing contrast is provided by the Mikri Evgeniki Vidiano 2021 from the Efrosini estate. Ripe apricot notes are underpinned by a well-balanced mineral backbone. A solid example of the variety, meriting 89 points — with potential for higher scores in better vintages.
The Vidiano 2021 from the renowned Diamantakis winery fascinated us with its ability to stand up to hearty dishes even after several days. However, the wine suffers from excessive acidity – something that, interestingly, we did not find in the blend with Assyrtiko (see below), despite Assyrtiko's reputation for precisely this kind of profile. It's hard to say whether this particular bottle was perhaps off. I had expected more. Even in this condition, it still merits at least 87 points, though I cannot, for that very reason, recommend it as an ideal introduction to the grape variety.
A particular surprise comes from the Agelakis winery: the Takimi Vidiano 2017. One of Greece's most complex orange wines, it impresses with a multi-layered aromatic spectrum, from dried fruit to marzipan. Despite already being six years old at the time of tasting, the wine showed no signs of fatigue, earning an impressive 93 points.
And it's worth looking beyond the island's shores: Vidiano is gaining ground outside Crete as well. The Vidiano 2021 from Oenops in the Drama region in northern Greece (also pictured above) shows particular complexity: with its array of fruit aromas and intricate vinification, it scores a well-deserved 92 points. It is impressive proof that Vidiano can deliver excellent results beyond Crete.
Vidiano Beyond Crete — Examples from Northern Greece
The Sole Vidiano from the Biblia Chora estate also takes us to northern Greece. I've had this wine several times before — the 2020, for instance, two years ago, when what particularly won me over was its elegant aromatics. It isn't quite as "sole" as the name suggests, though — there's a small dash of Assyrtiko (8%) in the blend. And that splash of Assyrtiko shouldn't be underestimated: the grape so typical of Santorini lends the creamy, stone-fruit-driven Vidiano added freshness and mineral depth. On the palate, vibrant acidity carries notes of peach and apricot, while pure apricot fruit and citrus-zest aromas combine into a lively, multi-layered whole. The far-from-negligible 13.5% alcohol is seamlessly integrated, carrying the wine through its different phases on the palate. A wine that lingers in the memory. 93 points!
The 2023, which I tasted several times last year, deserves the same rating. The consistent quality of this wine is truly impressive. I don't know whether Vidiano can get much better than this. For me, it's not a grape variety with 100-point potential. But with grilled pork belly it outshines — for me, at least — even renowned white Burgundies.
Now, though, let's turn to the blends in which other varieties genuinely hold their own alongside Vidiano. But first, a brief aside: outside Crete, Vidiano is increasingly being put to good use in blends. The combination with Assyrtiko in particular strikes me as having great potential, as a logical continuation of the idea behind the Sole wine. While Assyrtiko is traditionally often blended with Malagousia to marry floral and fruity aromas with Assyrtiko's hallmark acidity, Vidiano, with its distinctive texture, offers a compelling alternative – or complement.
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Blends with Vidiano
The Apla 2021 from Oenops in Drama shows how it could be done, combining Malagousia (50%), Assyrtiko (30%) and Vidiano (20%). As its name suggests (and unlike its red counterpart, which is well worth taking seriously), it is a simple, straightforward wine. Apple and floral aromas dominate. But then there's also that remarkably solid texture. Still, that's good for a respectable 88 points. At a little over €10, not exactly compelling value, but certainly worth a try on a hot summer day.
And what about Crete itself? Growers there tend to favor other floral-scented varieties over Malagousia.
The Vidiano Moscato 2021 from Titakis comes across as an approachable blend, with Muscat of Spinas (40%) dominating the nose. The 60% Vidiano share, however, gives the wine solid structure. The 87-point score — which strikes me as fair here — is nothing to take lightly for a wine in this style.
Slightly more convincing, to my mind, is the internationally styled Sophia Chardonnay-Vidiano 2019 from the Efrosini estate, with Chardonnay dominating the blend at 60% – and you can taste it. After six months in French oak, the wine shows a buttery palate, a treat for lovers of full-bodied whites. That said, this comes at the cost of some complexity. A very good 89 points.
But why chase aromatic varieties or aim for opulent wines in the first place? Why not make the most of blending it with Santorini's pearl? The Diamantopetra Vidiano-Assyrtiko 2021 from the Diamantakis winery shows how it's done. The wine blends Assyrtiko and Vidiano in equal parts at 13.0% alcohol. Unlike the winery's varietal Vidiano, what particularly impresses here is the balanced acidity. The nose is elegant, and the restrained oak (three months on the lees) is seamlessly integrated. A magnificent wine: 93 points. More like this, please!
Vidiano also turns up, of course, in sweet wines — as Liastos, made from sun-dried grapes. (Anyone who comes across the term "Malvasia" in this context can be forgiven for being confused… Karakasis explains the background here.) One I found very good — worth 92 points, that is — was the Liastos 2017 from Lyrarakis, for instance. Admittedly, you can hardly pick out the Vidiano amid the Plyto, Assyrtiko, Thrapsathiri, Dafni and Vilana. But at a mere 11.5% alcohol, this is a rather refreshing option for dessert.
Of course, there are also other white blends on Crete that dispense with Vidiano entirely — and the results quickly veer toward the distinctly floral. The Kleftis 2021 from the Efrosini winery, for example, combines 60% Assyrtiko with Malvasia as an aromatic blending partner. The floral character shows beautifully, Assyrtiko contributes minerality, and the finish has energy, with its 13% alcohol making itself clearly felt. That same finish, though, is a touch unsettled — the result is a nervy rather than a supple wine. A very good 86 points.
Further White Blends Without Vidiano
Faring somewhat better is the white Prinos 2021 from Diamantakis Winery (PGI Crete). This blend of Chardonnay and an aromatic variety – in this case, Malvasia di Candia Aromatica – delivers everything you'd expect from such a blend (see our earlier post here). Pleasant floral nose with hints of tropical fruit and a lovely interplay on the palate. A moderate 13% alcohol that gives the wine backbone. Very respectable finish. 89 points for this ideal, fuss-free food wine!
In my view, Vilana is particularly promising as a blending partner — and deserves far more attention than it currently receives. This white grape variety, grown primarily on Crete, is prized for its fresh acidity and citrus aromatics. It is often used in blends to produce light, aromatic wines with floral and mineral notes. Although traditionally reserved for simple, everyday wines, it reveals real potential for fine wines in the hands of a careful winemaker.
Granted, blockbusters aren't guaranteed here. The Codex 2019 from the Zacharioudakis Winery (PGI Heraklion), for instance, blends Vilana with Malvasia di Candia Aromatica. It was already showing the first signs of aging two years ago. On top of that, it shows rather pronounced bitter notes, which leaves it at a merely 'good' 83 points.
That said, it can be done considerably better: the Aromatica 2021 from Domaine Menexes (PGI Crete) — made from the same blend — impresses with its magnificent texture and the fascinating way its aromas unfold on the palate. An excellent 92 points!
More single-varietal white wines
Further Single-Varietal White Wines
To round out our overview of the white wines, we turn to the single-varietal wines outside the Vidiano family. Assyrtiko is an obvious candidate for second place.
The Samonion 2021 from Ktima Toplou (PGI Lasithi) makes for a thoroughly solid opener. The wine shows impressive aromatic complexity and robust structure, with generous fruit and subtle hints of banana, along with charming, Riesling-like tannins. It earns a very good 89 points.
A wine that heads in a similar — if less exotically overripe — direction is one I tasted quite a while ago, on holiday in Crete in 2021: the white Melissokipos Assyrtiko 2019 from Domaine Paterianakis. What I do remember is thinking very highly of it — and lots of stone fruit, herbs, and — here too — a chalky texture on the palate. I can no longer say whether I'm imagining that hint of wax in hindsight, given the estate's love of bees. But I'm still certain it was worth 91 points.
One might object, admittedly, that there are plenty of Assyrtikos in this style on the Greek mainland (see here and here) — so there's no need to look to Crete. Still, one exception deserves a mention: if you're after more island character, the Petali 2021 from Diamantakis Winery would be a superb alternative to Santorini. It wins you over with its elegance, refreshing salinity and long finish. Tasted blind, anyone would swear it came from the volcanic island. An excellent 90 points — at around €10, you'll never, ever get that from Santorini!
Those who want a purer taste of Crete can reach for Thrapsathiri as well as Vidiano — a variety also found in the Cyclades. Despite what the name might suggest, it isn't a "squid-shaped variant of Athiri" (thrápsalo being Greek for squid). In fact, DNA analysis places it closer to Vidiano. It's sometimes called "the Greek Sauvignon Blanc" — presumably because the wines tend to be quite full-bodied with exotic aromas. But it can also show real finesse, as the Gerto 2019 from the Toplou Winery demonstrates. The nose of this Thrapsathiri reveals impressive elegance with delicate notes of brioche and white flowers. The palate unfolds with vibrant freshness — green apple and a hint of ripe mango. The finish is saline. The interplay of elegance and zesty freshness wins you over — and that's six years on from the harvest; I've only just retasted it. 90 points.
And then there's Vilana, already mentioned in the blends section — from a local perspective the queen of the island's white varieties, even if, internationally, nothing can of course rival Vidiano (to which, incidentally, it is also related). The wines are prone to oxidation, which probably explains why you don't often find high-quality bottles made exclusively from this grape. Then again, perhaps I'm just too much of a Vidiano fan to have encountered the real blockbusters yet. But I can warmly recommend what Menexes delivers with the Orange Vilana 2021. The slight whiff of solvent you notice at first is quickly swirled away. Then you can bury your nose in a whole lot of quince. The development on the palate is astonishingly dynamic. Plenty of candied fruit emerges, along with varietally typical citrus. The grippy tannins come from 20 days on the skins. Six months' maturation in *pitharia* (traditional clay jars) on the fine lees rounds everything off nicely, so the wine never becomes overpowering — though it clearly calls for food — goat, say. The 14.5% ABV is no lightweight. But you only feel it once the rather long finish eventually fades. 91 points.
Red Grape Varieties
International Varieties on Crete
After this whistle-stop tour of Cretan whites, we now turn to the reds. Although Crete is known primarily for its indigenous grape varieties, the island also produces remarkable wines from international grapes. A striking case in point is the Economou 2012, a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, which, in a head-to-head tasting about a year ago, more than held its own against a Pontet-Canet of the same age and very similar composition (admittedly a 100-point candidate only in other vintages). In the blind tasting, the Cretan wine was immediately expressive with aromas of dried fruit such as prunes and raisins — already showing distinct maturity. (On an even earlier occasion, it had been spicier with more herbal notes, which complemented the robust tannins nicely.) Still a superb wine — the sweetness on the finish was particularly persuasive. A year ago we gave it 93 points, and we weren't entirely sure whether it was on the decline or merely going through a dumb phase. At the time, I would have given it only a short remaining drinking window. But with a recent bottle, the wine was right back on form! We can now write 93+ with a fair degree of confidence.
International varieties also impress as single-varietal wines on Crete. It's with Merlot in particular that, in my view, the island — like Greece as a whole — reveals its potential (see also here): the Menexes Merlot 2019 from the eponymous winery was aged for 12 months in French oak, which announces itself in intense vanilla notes from the very first nose right through the lingering finish of this unfiltered wine. The fruit takes something of a back seat, while the slightly sandy tannins provide structure. The 14.5% ABV and the vanilla combine for a distinctly sweet impression. Taken as a whole, it's very appealing and harmonious, without ever becoming dull. The fridge test over several days argues for enjoying this lovely wine now or over the coming year. Certainly not Greece's most complex Merlot, but a wine with a highly distinctive profile, a perfect fit for all manner of occasions. An outstanding 92 points, and at around €15, more than fairly priced.
The Materia Merlot 2019 from Agelakis Winery takes things up yet another notch. Just six months of ageing in French oak (plus partial maturation in pitharia) yield an extraordinarily sophisticated nose. The oak comes across as a broad spectrum of spices without any single component standing out jarringly. Add to that a bloody, iron-tinged note that whets your curiosity about the palate. On the palate, the fruit at first falls slightly short of these lofty expectations, but over time the perfectly judged acidity — against a pleasant 13% alcohol — comes to the fore and carries the wine on the finish for a very, very long time. With a bit more bottle age, this wine could well be capable of even more: 94+ points! (Yes, that's a lot. But that's how it showed last year. I hope to taste it again soon.)
We'll encounter Syrah in blends several more times below. As a varietal wine, it spans a fairly broad quality spectrum (see also here). The 2019 101 Portes from Toplou Winery (PGI Lasithi) showed a touch of barnyard on the nose two years ago, though still very subtle and safely on the appealing side of the line. There's a generous helping of spice in the glass, as the very first sip makes clear — so much so that the blueberry typical of the variety only surfaces on the finish. Surprisingly, the alcohol comes in at just 13%. Perhaps not perfectly balanced, but its layered complexity makes it a very appealing wine — one that nonetheless merits a very good 89 points.
One of the stars of a Syrah tasting two years ago was the Nostos 2017 from Manousakis Winery (PGI Chania). I'd gone in with a certain sense of anticipation — after all, Yiannis Karakasis had already called the 2014 a candidate for the country's best Syrah! And indeed, the 2017 immediately won me over on the nose with a wonderfully attractive mix of spices, matched in that tasting perhaps only by the Le Roy des Montagnes 2020 from Papargyriou Winery (Peloponnese). Except that on the palate, this wine shows far greater finesse. And for once there was a mouth-watering streak of bacon. (The Avus 2016 from Nadir Winery is the only Greek Syrah that clearly tops it!) It really doesn't get much better than this. A phenomenal 96 points. One caveat, though: the wine faded quite quickly in the days that followed. Unfortunately, I don't know whether the 2017 is still drinking well … (The Lacules 2018, on the other hand — not from Crete, and slightly ahead in that tasting — is one I'd vouch for without a moment's hesitation.)
Indigenous Varieties — Kotsifali, Mandilaria, and Liatiko
Among Crete's indigenous grape varieties, three in particular define the island's red wine production: Kotsifali brings alcohol and body to the wines, while Mandilaria (also called Mantilari) contributes deep colour and robust tannins. The two varieties have traditionally complemented each other in blends, as each often shows weaknesses on its own — Kotsifali is prone to oxidation and tends toward pale colour, while Mandilaria can come across as very rustic and harsh. Liatiko, the island's third major red variety, is a different proposition. On its own, it is capable of producing compelling wines, often reminiscent of Pinot Noir.
A look at single-varietal interpretations confirms these clichés: the Mandilaria 2019 from the Menexes winery displays a robust tobacco character and powerful tannins. Six months' ageing in French oak rounds out the whole — an altogether excellent introduction to the variety, but at 90 points it also shows the variety's limited ceiling. I've yet to encounter much more from a single-varietal Mandilaria.
The Chromata Kiprotakis 2021, a single-varietal Kotsifali, impresses with its floral character, underscored by hints of dark chocolate. The alcohol, though noticeable, is well integrated, making it a thoroughly satisfying drink. 88 points. Not bad, but not exactly earth-shattering either.
Liatiko, by contrast, impressively demonstrates its qualities as a soloist. The Petali Liatiko 2019 from Diamantakis could hold its own against great Pinot Noirs on the nose. It stands out for its balance, a rounded palate, and the finest tannins of any wine at a tasting of single-varietal Liatikos last year, capped by a truly long finish. That earns it an outstanding 92 points.
The Mikri Evgeniki Liatiko 2018 from Efrosini (PDO Dafnes) deceives with its mature, orange-tinged colour. One might expect a sweet wine, given how weightily it sits in the glass. Its aromas of plums and raisins, combined with its 15.5% alcohol, then call to mind an understated Amarone. The soft tannins keep it pleasantly drinkable even at warmer serving temperatures. An interesting wine. 89 points.
From Toplou Winery come no fewer than three fascinating interpretations of Liatiko: the Linos Liatiko 2021 (a PGI Lasithi), whose pale hue is reminiscent of a Pinot Noir. The nose shows an elegant interplay of subtle cherry and floral notes. A touch spritzy on opening, it really opens up on the second day. 89 points.
As a rosé (yes, this one's a bit of an outlier here, but I haven't had enough rosés from Crete in the past two years to warrant a category of their own), the Amaranton 2021 (also PGI Lasithi) offers a textbook demonstration of the variety's supple tannins. The 14% alcohol is deftly woven into a tapestry of red-berry and floral aromas. 90 points.
A true speciality is the sweet Filotheos Liatiko, with its characteristic tawny hue and a nose of mocha. On the palate, notes of toffee and caramel meld, underpinned by fresh acidity. Served chilled, it is a particular treat with banoffee pie. 92 points.
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Classic Blends: Kotsifali and Mandilaria
The classic partnership of Kotsifali and Mandilaria follows a logic similar to that of the famous Bordeaux blends: just as Merlot lends Cabernet Sauvignon a softer character, Kotsifali is meant to temper Mandilaria's sometimes highly assertive tannins. Mandilaria, in turn, contributes ample tannin but often lacks alcohol and aromatic intensity.
The combination doesn't just work in theory. When tasting the two single-varietal wines mentioned earlier, we did some enthusiastic "blending" of our own right in the glass, and sure enough: the combination was more convincing than either wine on its own.
There's not much I can say about the ageing potential of this combination. However, I've had two genuinely mass-market wines of over twenty years' age in my glass. And they were at least still passable. The 2003 from Michalakis, at 75 points, just about managed drinkable quality and very much still displayed the typical character of the Cretan varieties. The Boutari version actually impressed, with its lively acidity and tannins that were still very much present — a remarkable 84 points for a twenty-year-old wine from this, the very lowest, price bracket.
That said, I must admit that, personally, I have yet to come across a truly outstanding wine made from these two grape varieties. I would welcome any recommendations …
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Blends with International Partners
It strikes me as all the more remarkable, then, that two years ago I came across a truly fine Cretan wine that paired Mandilaria with another international, "masculine" variety — Cabernet Sauvignon. The Sera 2015 from Silva Daskalaki, a 50/50 blend of the two, reveals dark fruit and ripe plum on the nose with a touch of tar. Despite its inky-dark colour, it does put one in mind of a Nebbiolo. On the palate, what impresses most is the incredible density. The grippy tannins reinforce an impression that coats the entire palate. After a brief lull immediately following the concentrated attack — which the wine shakes off with a little air — a distinctive finish develops, reminiscent of wet hemp twine, giving the wine remarkable length on the palate. A superb 92 points for this characterful wine. I'd be very curious to revisit it now!
I usually find Mandilaria–Syrah blends less than convincing. The Diamantopetra Syrah-Mandilaria 2018 from the Diamantakis winery was, for me personally, a disappointment: smoky Syrah notes dominate the nose, while on the palate firm acidity and pronounced tannins mask the fruit. At only 12.5% ABV, it's also a touch lacking in body. A somewhat unbalanced wine, which barely earns 88 points from me. Konstantinos Lazarakis MW writes in The Wines of Greece (p. 370): "Diamantopetra is the most prestigious line … Although most Cretan producers blend Syrah with the softer Kotsifali, in Diamantopetra Red Diamantakis blends it with Mandilaria, and comes out a winner …" I confess I struggle to share that assessment. However, the 2020 vintage was recently awarded 92+ points by Peter Pharos — and that after he had given the 2017 a fairly modest 89+. So perhaps a genuine upward trajectory is under way. I'll be watching this one closely …
Personally, I think (like the majority of Cretan winemakers mentioned above) that Syrah marries far better with Kotsifali — if you want to blend Syrah with Cretan varieties in the first place. The Philoxenia Syrah-Kotsifali 2017 from Efrosini Winery shows classic notes of dried strawberries and rose petals. The tannins here are noticeably rounder than in the Mandilaria blend, though the long finish brings little new to the table. At 14.5% ABV, a solid example of this blend. 89 points.
Even more convincing is this combination in the Enstikto 2015 from Silva Daskalaki, comprising 70% Kotsifali and 30% Syrah, aged for one year in new French oak barrels. At the last tasting in 2022, it was showing in top form. A real tannin bomb that probably needed every single day of its maturation. The tannins still aren't exactly refined and likely never will be, but they never become obtrusive — they're simply waiting for a suitably hearty dish. The wine owes its outstanding 94 points above all to one quality: its astonishingly fresh fruit. Cherry — especially cornelian cherry — is present from the very first sip and persists through a finish of remarkable length for this price bracket. A wine I definitely want to revisit!
All of this works remarkably well as a rosé, too. The 2022 Melissinos rosé from Domaine Paterianakis is proof of that. The deep colour betrays the saignée method. The nose offers a profusion of berry fruit. There's a hint of tomato as well. For a moment I thought I was tasting a Xinomavro. On the palate, the wine is a powerhouse — it has enormous grip, and that despite the Kotsifali! The acidity is on the low side, the perceived fruit sweetness dialled up considerably. But not the least bit confected! A real discovery — one I made only last year — and yet it's the estate's oldest label. 93 points.
So: the notion that Mandilaria needs a "feminine" blending partner is, in my view, something of a myth. And with Kotsifali, it's much the same story: here too, the Cretan variety shines above all in combination with its comparably supple counterpart from Bordeaux. Case in point: the Takimi Kotsifali-Merlot 2019 from Agelakis Winery (which, as mentioned above, also has an excellent single-varietal Merlot in its range). The blend is 70% Kotsifali to 30% Merlot. A hint of barnyard on the nose gives way to a balanced palate with soft, rounded edges. The 14% ABV is seamlessly integrated and provides just the right warmth without masking the fruit. 92 points — proof positive that Kotsifali and Merlot together can make outstanding wine. (Which makes me all the more disappointed, frankly, that from the 2021 vintage onwards, the red Takimi is 100% Kotsifali … which, admittedly, I have yet to taste.)
What happens when you add both Syrah and Merlot (20% each) to Kotsifali? The results vary wildly: the Impetus Kotsifali-Merlot-Syrah 2019 from Titakis Winery is, to my mind, one of the most disappointing Cretan reds I've had in my glass in recent years. The fresh nose of cherry jam shows promise, but the palate is dominated by sour, green notes. The 13% alcohol isn't enough to knit the aromas together. 83 points. (Paul Gegas awards the 2018 a respectable 87 points — this 2019 definitely fell well short of that mark.)
How to do it better is demonstrated by the Merlot-Syrah-Kotsifali 2019 blend from the Menexes estate — a winery that has already proven with its single-varietal Merlot (see above) that it has mastered this variety on Crete. Dark berry aromas dominate, while the palate is round and supple. The 14% alcohol is seamlessly integrated. A touch more structure would have made the wine even more impressive, but it's drinking beautifully right now and requires no further cellaring. 93 points.
Liatiko — Elevated in Blends
But let's get back to what I consider the true king of Crete: Liatiko, one of the few Greek grape varieties that in my view have genuine 100-point potential. (Vidiano — as I said, my favourite among the white varieties — probably doesn't, even though I really do love drinking those wines!)
We begin with an exception, because it's a rosé — and because it's the only bottle I've ever tasted off the floor. It exploded on me as I was setting it down … The Petinari 2021 from Efrosini Winery is a blend of Liatiko and Kotsifali. The nose is strikingly fresh, with lots of green apple. On the palate, though, it shows real suppleness and lets plenty of red fruit shine through on the impressive finish. A well-made rosé with real drive — great fun at a garden party (hopefully with less snow than in the photo below). A very good 89 points indeed.
Turning to the reds, let's begin with a blend in a more international style in which Liatiko plays a supporting role: the Cornelia Merlot-Syrah-Liatiko 2018 from Agelakis Winery marries the two international varieties with their Cretan counterpart. Subtle oxidative notes mingle with smoky and plummy aromas. At 13.5% alcohol, the wine delivers depth without weight. A singular, well-balanced wine: 92 points. I'd love to see more blends like this.
A quick aside: blends in which Kotsifali takes Merlot's place are also quite popular. Douloufakis's Enotria, for instance, is a respectable entry point in that regard, though I don't have a written tasting note to hand at the moment.
Now for the real star: Liatiko with a share of Mandilaria. Two extraordinary wines from Domaine Economou show the full potential of this combination. The Mirabello 2015, a 60:40 blend of Liatiko and Mandilaria, is vivid and brimming with energy. Pale ruby with garnet reflections. On the nose, ripe plums, red cherries, caramel, leather, and hints of cedar and thyme. On the palate, the tannins impress — utterly singular — you practically land on them, like a rubber dinghy landing softly on the water's surface. Smoky undertones and fresh acidity balance the juicy fruit, culminating in a long, elegant finish. 96 points — and outstanding value at around €50! Others score this wine lower — and frankly, that caution seems justified, given how it showed recently in a head-to-head with its "older brother," to which we now turn …
The Antigone 2004 (PDO Sitia) is a blend of 80% Liatiko and 20% Mandilaria (Voidomati). A true legend, incredibly refined. In the glass, pale garnet with amber glints. Complex aromas of dried cherries, figs, Mediterranean herbs, leather, and a hint of vanilla. It seems younger than the Mirabello 2015. On the palate, a revelation: from the very first millisecond, aromas, acidity, sweetness, and incredibly polished tannins come together in perfect harmony. Powerful, elegant, and unforgettable. I initially gave it 97 points early last year. After drinking it again on New Year's Eve, I have to bump that up to 98 points. One of the finest Greek red wines — and this time there's a very broad consensus among Greek and non-Greek wine critics: Paul Gegas awards 97 points, as does Yannis Athanasakopoulos. Wine & Spirits gives 96 points, Int'l Wine Review 96–97 points — and the two Masters of Wine Susie Barrie and Peter Richards are positively effusive, even going so far as to declare it their wine of the year. (18/20 from Jancis Robinson is nothing to scoff at either, but surprisingly restrained by comparison.) €120 is no small sum, but in this case entirely justified. Drink now or cellar for another decade.
Given the quality of the latter, I'm eagerly awaiting the Antigone 1999, which is due to be released this year. Let me say out loud what many are surely thinking: Will it be a 100-point wine?
To end on a deliberately anticlimactic note, the wine that comes closest to that eagerly awaited vintage: the Sitia 2000 from Domaine Economou, also a classic 80:20 blend of Liatiko and Mandilaria. Unfortunately, I've only tasted it from a single bottle, which I bought online in Greece. Judging by the cork, storage had probably been less than ideal. Even so, the wine shows attractive maturity with complex aromas of wild herbs, caramel, and earthy thyme, along with surprisingly fresh acidity. The slightly fading finish could be down to the 12% alcohol — or to less-than-ideal storage. I'm inclined to give the estate the benefit of the doubt, and I suspect the latter played its part — from a sound, well-stored bottle this is probably more like 94 points. (Wein.plus gives it 85 points … which is frankly laughable and cannot be taken seriously.) If I ever get my hands on a properly cellared bottle, I will of course report back.
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