My Picture of Cretan Wine: A Mosaic of Bottles
- Griechische Weine
- 3 days ago
- 21 min read
Crete's wine culture stretches back over 4,000 years and is currently experiencing a fascinating renaissance. In what follows, I'd like to offer a snapshot overview of some of the developments as I see them. I'll do so by pointing to wines I've had in my glass recently — wines that, taken together, paint a picture of where Cretan wine stands for me right now.
This is, mind you, not a systematic survey — more of a mosaic, assembled from the bottles that have stayed with me most over the past two years. Zoom in close and you'll see individual, unconnected labels; but with a bit of distance and goodwill — or slightly squinted eyes — a coherent picture emerges, or so I hope.
Anyone looking for a second, individual perspective on the dynamic evolution of Cretan winemaking is warmly encouraged to read Peter Pharos's recent piece on Tim Atkin's website. There's considerable overlap, but also quite distinct emphases.
White Grape Varieties
The Vidiano Grape — Single-Varietal Examples
Let's begin our journey of discovery with Crete's most important white grape variety: Vidiano. This indigenous variety perfectly embodies the character of the island — it combines mineral notes with expressive fruit aromas while producing wines of remarkable structure.
The Vorinos 2020 from Silva Daskalaki is an impressive demonstration of the variety's potential. This small, biodynamically run estate relies on spontaneous fermentation. Yet the wine has a crystal-clear structure. At 12% ABV, it's surprisingly lean and creamy at once, with a pronounced acidity on the finish. An excellent wine that perfectly showcases the typical combination of minerality and expressive fruit. 92 points!
From higher-altitude, older vines on the same estate comes the Enstikto 2018, which is more full-bodied at 13.5% ABV and blended with 10% Chardonnay. The ageing in new French oak shapes the wine with surprising restraint — not a trace of buttery notes. Instead, quince and green grass aromas dominate. However, the minerality so characteristic of Vidiano takes a bit of a back seat here. A wine that calls for richer dishes. 90 points!
An intriguing contrast is offered by the Mikri Evgeniki Vidiano 2021 from Efrosini Winery. Ripe apricot aromas meet a well-balanced mineral structure. A solid representative of the variety, deserving of 89 points, with clear potential for higher scores in better vintages.
The Vidiano 2021 from the well-regarded Diamantakis Winery was fascinating for its ability to hold its own alongside rich dishes even after several days. However, the wine suffers from excessive acidity — which, interestingly, we didn't find in the blend with Assyrtiko (see below), despite that second variety's reputation for exactly that kind of profile. Whether this particular bottle may have had an issue is hard to say. I had expected more. Even in this state, one can still award at least 87 points — but it's not a wine I'd recommend as a perfect introduction to the variety.
A real surprise is the Takimi Vidiano 2017 from Agelakis Winery. As one of the most complex orange wines in Greece, it convinces with a multifaceted aromatic spectrum ranging from dried fruit to marzipan. Despite being six years old at the time of tasting, it showed no signs of fatigue and earned an impressive 93 points.
Vidiano Beyond Crete — Examples from Northern Greece
Incidentally — and this much of a look beyond the island's shores is warranted here — Vidiano is also gaining importance outside of Crete. The Vidiano 2021 from Oenops, from the Drama region in northern Greece (also pictured above), presents itself with particular complexity. With its range of fruit aromas and sophisticated vinification, it earns a well-deserved 92 points. It proves convincingly that Vidiano can deliver excellent results beyond Crete as well.
The Sole Vidiano from Biblia Chora also takes us to northern Greece. It's not quite as "sole" as the name suggests, since it contains a small proportion of Assyrtiko (8%). I've had this wine several times before — for instance, the 2020 vintage two years ago. That one particularly impressed me with its elegant aromatics. On the palate, a dynamic flavour experience unfolds, with vibrant acidity accompanying notes of peach and apricot. And that splash of Assyrtiko should not be underestimated. The grape so emblematic of Santorini lends the creamy, stone-fruit-driven Vidiano additional freshness and mineral depth. Pure apricot notes merge with citrus zest aromas into a lively, multi-layered taste experience. The already considerable 13.5% ABV is perfectly integrated and supports the wine's various flavour phases. A wine that stays with you. 93 points!
The 2023 vintage deserves the same score — I had it several times last year. The consistent quality of this wine is truly impressive. Whether Vidiano can get much better than this, I'm not sure. For me, it's not a variety with 100-point potential. But this much I will say: with grilled pork belly, it personally surpasses even prestigious Burgundy Chardonnays for me.
Blends with Vidiano
Let's now turn to the blends in which other grape varieties play a genuinely independent role alongside Vidiano. But let me first insert a brief aside: outside Crete, Vidiano is increasingly being used to great effect in blends. The combination with Assyrtiko in particular seems to me to have great potential, as a logical extension of the idea behind the Sole wine. While Assyrtiko is traditionally often blended with Malagousia to pair floral and fruity aromas with its characteristic acidity, Vidiano, with its distinctive texture, offers an exciting alternative — or complement.
The Apla 2021 from Oenops in Drama shows how this might work, uniting Malagousia (50%), Assyrtiko (30%), and Vidiano (20%). As the name suggests — and unlike the decidedly more serious red counterpart — it's a straightforward, uncomplicated wine. Apple and floral aromas dominate. But then there's that very solid texture. That's worth 88 points at least. At a little over €10, it's not exactly a steal, but certainly worth a try on a hot summer's day.
And in Crete itself? There, instead of Malagousia, winemakers prefer other varieties with a floral bouquet.
The Vidiano Moscato 2021 from Titakis is an approachable blend in which Muscat of Spinas (40%) dominates the nose. The 60% Vidiano component, however, gives the wine a solid structure. The 87 points I think appropriate here are no small praise for a wine of this style.
I'm somewhat more impressed by the more internationally styled Sophia Chardonnay-Vidiano 2019 from Efrosini Winery, though here Chardonnay dominates at 60% — and you can taste it. After six months in French oak, the wine presents itself with a buttery mouthfeel, a treat for lovers of full-bodied whites. Some complexity is lost in the process, though. A very good 89 points.
But why look to aromatic varieties at all, or try to make rich, opulent wines? Why not fully exploit the potential of the combination with the jewel of Santorini? The Diamantopetra Vidiano-Assyrtiko 2021 from Diamantakis Winery shows how it's done. The wine blends Assyrtiko and Vidiano in equal parts at 13.0% ABV. Unlike the estate's single-varietal Vidiano, the balanced acid structure here is particularly convincing. The nose is elegant, and the restrained oak influence (3 months on lees) is perfectly integrated. A superb wine: 93 points. More of this, please!
Vidiano also appears in sweet wines, of course — as Liastos, made from sun-dried grapes. (Anyone who comes across the term "Malvasia" in this context is justified in being confused … Karakasis explains the background here.) I thought very highly — that is, 92 points' worth — of the Liastos 2017 from Lyrarakis. You can't really pick out the Vidiano amid the Plyto, Assyrtiko, Thrapsathiri, Dafni, and Vilana. But at just 11.5% ABV, this is a rather refreshing option with dessert.
Further White Blends Without Vidiano
There are, of course, also white blends on Crete that manage entirely without Vidiano. Things quickly get quite floral here. The Kleftis 2021 from Efrosini Winery, for instance, combines 60% Assyrtiko with Malvasia as an aromatic blending partner. The floral character comes across well, Assyrtiko contributes minerality, and the finish is dynamic at a clear 13% ABV. The somewhat restless finish, however, makes this not so much a smooth wine as an excitable one. A very good 86 points.
Somewhat more convincing is the white Prinos 2021 from Diamantakis Winery (PGI Crete). It delivers everything you'd expect from a blend of Chardonnay with an aromatic variety — here Malvasia di Candia Aromatica. (See also here.) Pleasant floral nose with exotic hints, lovely interplay. 13% ABV that carries the wine well. Very decent finish. 89 points for this ideal, easy-going food companion!
I find Vilana particularly promising and deserving of more attention as a blending partner. This white grape variety, grown mainly on Crete, is known for its fresh acidity and citrus aromas. It's often used in blends to produce light, aromatic wines with floral and mineral notes. Although traditionally used for simple wines, it shows its potential for high-quality bottlings when combined with careful winemaking.
Of course, there are no guarantees of blockbusters here. The Codex 2019 from Zacharioudakis Winery (PGI Heraklion), for instance, combines Vilana with Malvasia di Candia Aromatica. It was already showing early signs of ageing two years ago. Add to that some fairly pronounced bitter notes, which leads to a merely good 83 points.
But it can also be done much better: a wine of the same composition is the Aromatica 2021 from Domaine Menexes (PGI Crete), which convinces with superb texture and a fascinating aromatic development on the palate. An excellent 92 points!
Further Single-Varietal White Wines
To round off our white wine panorama, a look at single-varietal wines outside the Vidiano family. Assyrtiko is an obvious candidate for second place.
A perfectly respectable entry point is the Samonion 2021 from Ktima Toplou (PGI Lasithi). The wine convinces with aromatic complexity, robust structure, fruitiness, and subtle banana hints, along with charming Riesling-like tannins. A very good 89 points.
In a similar, if less exotically overripe, direction goes a wine I had in my glass quite a while ago, on holiday in Crete in 2021: the white Melissokipos Assyrtiko 2019 from Domaine Paterianakis. I still remember thinking very highly of it — and recall lots of stone fruit, herbs, and, again, a chalky texture on the palate. Whether I'm now imagining the hint of wax in hindsight because of the estate's love of bees, I can no longer say. But that it was worth 91 points — of that I'm still quite sure.
One might point out, of course, that there are plenty of Assyrtikos in this style on the Greek mainland (see here and here) and that one doesn't need to turn to Crete for them. So let me at least mention one exception: if you want more island flair, the Petali 2021 from Diamantakis Winery would be an excellent alternative to Santorini. It captivates with elegance, refreshing salinity, and a long finish. In a blind tasting, everyone would think of the volcanic island. An excellent 90 points — at around €10, you'd never get that on Santorini!
For those who want something a bit more purely Cretan, there's Thrapsathiri alongside Vidiano — a variety also found on the Cyclades. Despite what the name might suggest, it is not a "squid-shaped Athiri variant." DNA analysis places the variety closer to Vidiano instead. It's sometimes called "the Greek Sauvignon Blanc" — presumably because the wines tend to be quite full-bodied with exotic aromas. But it can also be rather elegant, as the Gerto 2019 from Toplou Winery shows. The nose of this Thrapsathiri displays impressive elegance with delicate notes of brioche and white flowers. On the palate, a vibrant freshness unfolds with flavours of green apple and a hint of ripe mango. The finish is saline. The combination of elegance and vivacity is convincing — and this in its sixth year after harvest; I've just re-tasted it. 90 points.
And then there's Vilana, already mentioned in the blends section — from a local perspective the queen of white grape varieties, even if internationally nothing can rival Vidiano (to which, incidentally, it is also related). The wines are prone to oxidation, which probably explains why you don't often find high-quality bottles made exclusively from this grape. Perhaps I'm also simply too much of a Vidiano fan to have encountered the real blockbusters yet. But I can warmly recommend what Menexes presents in the Orange Vilana 2021. The slight whiff of solvent you notice at first is quickly swirled away. Then you can bury your nose in a whole lot of quince. The flavour progression is astonishingly dynamic. Plenty of candied fruit and the variety's typical citrus notes emerge. The grippy tannin comes from 20 days on the skins. Six months' maturation in pitharia on the fine lees rounds everything off nicely, so the wine doesn't overwhelm — though it clearly calls for food, something like braised goat. The 14.5% ABV are not to be taken lightly. But you only feel them once the rather long aftertaste has finally faded. 91 points.
Red Grape Varieties
International Varieties on Crete
After this spotlight tour of Cretan whites, let's turn to the reds. Although Crete is known primarily for its indigenous grape varieties, the island also produces remarkable wines from international varieties. A striking case in point is the Economou 2012, a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, which more than held its own in a head-to-head comparison about a year ago with a same-age Pontet-Canet from Bordeaux (admittedly only a 100-point candidate in other vintages). In the blind tasting, the Cretan wine was immediately present with aromas of dried fruit such as plums and raisins — clearly already showing some bottle age. (On an even earlier occasion, it had been spicier with more herbal notes, which paired well with the robust tannins.) Still a superb wine — the sweetness on the finish is particularly compelling. A year ago we gave it 93 points, and we weren't entirely sure whether it was on the decline or merely going through a dumb phase. At the time, I would have predicted only a short further drinking window. But a recent bottle was right back on form! One can now write 93+ with some confidence.
Single-varietal international grapes also impress on Crete. With Merlot in particular, the island (like Greece in general) shows its potential in my view (see also here): the Menexes Merlot 2019 was aged for 12 months in French oak, which is evident in this unfiltered wine from the very first nose through to the last echo of the finish in its intense vanilla notes. The fruit takes something of a back seat, while the slightly sandy tannin provides structure. The 14.5% ABV and the vanilla combine to create a very sweet impression. As a total package, this is very appealing and coherent, without becoming boring. The fridge test over several days suggests drinking this lovely wine now or within the next year. Certainly not the most complex Merlot in Greece, but a wine with a very distinctive profile that's perfect for many occasions. An outstanding 92 points — at around €15, that's more than just fair value.
The Materia Merlot 2019 from Agelakis Winery raises the bar considerably. Only six months' ageing in French oak (plus partial maturation in pitharia) results in an extraordinarily sophisticated nose. The oak manifests as a broad spice spectrum without any single component sticking out unpleasantly. Add to that a sanguine note that makes you eager for the palate. There, given such high expectations, the fruit is initially somewhat lacking, but over time the perfectly pitched acidity at a pleasant 13% ABV moves to the fore and carries the wine through an exceptionally long finish. With a bit more bottle age, this wine may have even more to give: 94+ points! (Yes, that's a lot. But that's how it showed last year. I hope to re-taste it soon.)
We'll encounter Syrah in blends several more times below. As a single varietal, it shows a fairly wide quality range (see also here). The 2019 101 Portes from Toplou Winery (PGI Lasithi) had a slightly barnyardy nose two years ago, but still very restrained and certainly within the attractive range. There's a good measure of spice in the glass, as the first sip immediately reveals — so the varietal blueberry only emerges on the finish. That the alcohol sits at just 13% is surprising. A perhaps not perfectly balanced wine, but one that's very attractive thanks to its complexity, earning a very good 89 points.
One of the stars of a Syrah tasting two years ago was the Nostos 2017 from Manousakis Winery (PGI Chania). I'd had fairly high hopes going in, since Yiannis Karakasis had already said of the 2014 that it was a candidate for the best Syrah in the country! And indeed, the 2017 immediately convinced on the nose with a wonderfully attractive mix of spices, matched in that tasting perhaps only by the Le Roy des Montagnes 2020 from Papargyriou Winery (Peloponnese). Except that on the palate, the wine arrives with far more finesse. And at last, there was also an appetising touch of bacon. (The Avus 2016 from Nadir Winery is the only Greek Syrah that outdoes this significantly!) It really doesn't get much better than this. A phenomenal 96 points. But a caveat: the wine dropped off quite quickly over the following days. Whether the 2017 vintage is still drinking well, I unfortunately don't know … (For the Lacules 2018, which is not from Crete and edged slightly ahead in that tasting, I'd stake both hands on it.)
Indigenous Varieties — Kotsifali, Mandilaria, and Liatiko
Among Crete's indigenous grape varieties, three in particular define the island's red wine production: Kotsifali brings alcohol and body to the wines, while Mandilaria (also called Mantilari) contributes deep colour and robust tannins. The two varieties traditionally complement each other in blends, as each shows weaknesses on its own — Kotsifali is prone to oxidation and pale colour, while Mandilaria can come across as very rustic and harsh. Liatiko, the third major red variety of the island, is a different story. It can also produce convincing wines as a single varietal, often reminiscent of Pinot Noir.
A look at single-varietal interpretations confirms these stereotypes: the Mandilaria 2019 from Menexes shows a robust tobacco character and firm tannins. Six months' ageing in French oak rounds off the overall picture — a thoroughly excellent introduction to this variety, but at 90 points it also reveals the limited ceiling. I've not had much better from a single-varietal Mandilaria.
The Chromata Kiprotakis 2021, a single-varietal Kotsifali, appeals with its floral nature and hints of dark chocolate. The noticeable alcohol is well integrated, making for a very satisfying drinking experience. 88 points. Not bad, but not exactly earth-shattering either.
Liatiko, by contrast, impressively demonstrates its qualities as a solo artist. The Petali Liatiko 2019 from Diamantakis could hold its own on the nose against fine Pinot Noirs. It impresses with its balance, a rounded palate, and the finest tannins of any bottle in a single-varietal Liatiko tasting last year, plus a truly long finish. That earns an outstanding 92 points.
The Mikri Evgeniki Liatiko 2018 from Efrosini (a PDO Dafnes) is deceptive with its mature, orange-tinged colour. You might expect a sweet wine, the way it sits so heavily in the glass. Its aromas of plums and raisins, combined with 15.5% ABV, are reminiscent of a restrained Amarone. The soft tannins make it pleasant to drink even at higher temperatures. An interesting wine. 89 points.
From Toplou Winery come three fascinating Liatiko interpretations: the Linos Liatiko 2021 (a PGI Lasithi), with its pale colour, recalls a Pinot Noir. The nose shows an elegant blend of subtle cherry and blossom aromas. Initially a touch CO₂-forward, it develops especially on the second day. 89 points.
As a rosé (yes, this doesn't quite fit the category, but I haven't had enough rosés from Crete in the past two years to warrant a section of their own), the Amaranton 2021 (also PGI Lasithi) showcases the silky tannins of the variety to textbook effect. The 14% ABV is deftly woven into a tapestry of red berries and blossom aromas. 90 points.
A particular speciality is the sweet Filotheos Liatiko, with its characteristic brownish colour and mocha nose. On the palate, toffee and caramel unite, supported by good acidity. Served chilled, it's an absolute treat with banoffee pie. 92 points.
Classic Blends: Kotsifali and Mandilaria
The classic pairing of Kotsifali and Mandilaria follows a logic similar to that of the famous Bordeaux blends: just as Merlot lends Cabernet Sauvignon a softer character, Kotsifali is meant to temper Mandilaria's sometimes overwhelming tannins. Mandilaria, in turn, brings plenty of tannin but often lacks alcohol and aromatic intensity.
The combination works not only in theory. When tasting the two single-varietal wines I mentioned above, we diligently blended them in the glass ourselves, and indeed: the combination was more convincing than either wine on its own.
On the ageability of this pairing I can say little. However, I've had two proper mass-produced examples in my glass that were over 20 years old. And they were at least still drinkable. The 2003 wine from Michalakis reached a still-drinkable 75 points and still showed the typical characteristics of the Cretan varieties. The Boutari version even impressed with its lively acidity and still-present tannins — an astonishing 84 points for a twenty-year-old wine at the very bottom of the price range.
However, I must personally confess that I've been waiting a long time for a truly outstanding wine from these two varieties. Recommendations are welcome …
Blends with International Partners
All the more striking, then, that two years ago I encountered a truly fine Cretan wine that paired Mandilaria with another, international, "masculine" variety — Cabernet Sauvignon. The Sera 2015 from Silva Daskalaki, a 50:50 blend of the two, reveals dark fruit and ripe plum on the nose with a touch of tar. Despite its inky-dark colour, it's somewhat reminiscent of a Nebbiolo. On the palate, what impresses most is the incredible density. The clinging tannins support a mouth-coating impression. After a brief dip right after the concentrated initial attack — which the bottle overcomes with air — a distinctive finish develops, reminiscent of damp hemp rope, turning the wine into a long-lasting flavour experience. A superb 92 points for this characterful wine. I'd be very curious to re-taste it now!
I generally find the combination of Mandilaria with Syrah less convincing. The Diamantopetra Syrah-Mandilaria 2018 from Diamantakis Winery personally disappointed me: smoky Syrah notes dominate the nose, while on the palate, strong acidity and pronounced tannins overshadow the fruit. At only 12.5% ABV, it also lacks some body. A somewhat unbalanced wine, to which I'd give just about 88 points. Konstantinos Lazarakis MW writes in The Wines of Greece (p. 370): "Diamantopetra is the most prestigious line … Although most Cretan producers blend Syrah with the softer Kotsifali, in Diamantopetra Red Diamantakis blends it with Mandilaria, and comes out a winner …" I personally cannot relate to that at all. However, the 2020 vintage was recently awarded 92+ points by Peter Pharos — after he'd given the 2017 a still fairly modest 89+. So perhaps there's a genuine upward trajectory. I'll be keeping my eyes open …
Personally, I think (along with the majority of Cretan winemakers just mentioned) that Syrah harmonises much better with Kotsifali — if one wants to blend Syrah with Cretan varieties at all. The Philoxenia Syrah-Kotsifali 2017 from Efrosini Winery delivers classic notes of dried strawberries and rose petals. The tannins here are noticeably rounder than in the combination with Mandilaria, though the long finish adds little that's new. At 14.5% ABV, a solid example of this blend. 89 points.
Even more convincing is the Enstikto 2015 from Silva Daskalaki, comprising 70% Kotsifali and 30% Syrah, aged for one year in new French oak barrels. At the last tasting in 2022, it presented itself in peak form. A genuine tannin bomb that has probably needed every day of its ageing. The tannins are still far from fine and likely never will be, but they don't push themselves unpleasantly to the fore — they simply wait for the right hearty food pairing. Its outstanding 94 points are owed above all to one quality: its astonishingly fresh fruit. Cherry — especially cornelian cherry — is present from the attack and persists through a remarkably long finish for this price range. A wine I'm very keen to re-taste!
This combination also works exceptionally well as a rosé. The rosé Melissinos 2022 from Domaine Paterianakis proves the point. The deep colour testifies to the saignée method. A profusion of berries greets you on the nose. A hint of tomato is perceptible too. For a moment I thought of Xinomavro. On the palate, the wine is a powerhouse — it simply has enormous grip, and this despite the Kotsifali! The acidity is rather low, the apparent fruit sweetness cranked up quite high. But not the least bit confected! A real discovery that I only made last year — and yet it's the estate's oldest label. 93 points.
So: the notion that Mandilaria needs a "feminine" blending partner is, in my view, quite the myth. And with Kotsifali, the picture is analogous in my eyes: here too, the Cretan variety shines above all in combination with the equally soft option from Bordeaux. This is impressively demonstrated by the Takimi Kotsifali-Merlot 2019 from Agelakis Winery (which, as mentioned above, also has an excellent single-varietal Merlot in its range). Here, 70% Kotsifali is blended with 30% Merlot. A hint of barnyard on the nose opens up into a balanced palate with soft, rounded edges. The 14% ABV is seamlessly integrated and provides just the right warmth without masking the fruit. 92 points — proof positive that Kotsifali and Merlot together can make outstanding wine. (All the more disappointed am I that the red Takimi from 2021 onwards is a single-varietal Kotsifali … which I haven't tasted yet, admittedly.)
What happens when you add both Syrah and Merlot (20% each) to Kotsifali? Quite different things: the Impetus Kotsifali-Merlot-Syrah 2019 from Titakis Winery is for me one of the most disappointing Cretan reds I've had in recent years. The fresh, cherry-jam-like nose raises hopes, but the palate is dominated by tart, underripe notes. The 13% ABV can't hold the flavours together. 83 points. (Paul Gegas gives the 2018 at least 87 points — this 2019 was definitely a good stretch away from that.)
How to do it better is shown by the Blend Merlot-Syrah-Kotsifali 2019 from Menexes — an estate that has already proven with its single-varietal Merlot (see above) that it knows how to handle this grape on Crete. Dark berry aromas dominate, the palate is round and supple. The 14% ABV is perfectly integrated. A touch more structure would have made the wine even more impressive, but it drinks perfectly right now and needs no further ageing. 93 points.
Liatiko — Elevated in Blends
Let's now return to what I consider the true king of Crete: Liatiko, one of the few Greek grape varieties that, in my opinion, genuinely has 100-point potential. (Vidiano, my favourite on the white wine side, probably doesn't — even though I love drinking those wines!)
We begin with an exception, because it's a rosé — and because it's the only bottle I've ever tasted from the floor up. It exploded on me when I set it down … The Petinari 2021 from Efrosini Winery is a blend of Liatiko and Kotsifali. On the nose, it comes across very fresh, with lots of green apple. On the palate, though, it has considerable richness and lets plenty of red fruits shimmer through on the impressive finish. A well-made rosé with real drive that would be great fun at a garden party (hopefully with less snow than in the photo below). A thoroughly good 89 points.
Among the reds, let's first look at a more internationally styled blend in which Liatiko plays a supporting role: the Cornelia Merlot-Syrah-Liatiko 2018 from Agelakis Winery marries the two international varieties with the Cretan one. Light oxidative notes combine with smoky and plummy aromas. The 13.5% ABV lends depth without heaviness. A unique and well-balanced wine: 92 points. I'd love to see more blends like this.
Brief aside: blends in which Kotsifali takes Merlot's place are also quite popular. The Enotria from Douloufakis, for instance, is a respectable entry-level wine of that type, though I don't have a written score to hand at the moment.
But now to the real star: Liatiko with a proportion of Mandilaria. In two extraordinary wines from Domaine Economou, the full potential of this combination is on display. The Mirabello 2015, a 60:40 blend of Liatiko and Mandilaria, presents itself as lively and brimming with energy. Bright ruby with garnet highlights. On the nose, ripe plums, red cherries, caramel, leather, and hints of cedar and thyme. On the palate, the tannins are unique — you virtually land on them, like the soft impact of a rubber dinghy hitting a water surface. Smoky undertones and fresh acidity balance the juicy fruit, culminating in a long, elegant finale. 96 points — and outstanding value at around €50! Others rate this wine more conservatively, but the score seems entirely justified to me given how it showed recently in a head-to-head with its "older sibling," to which we now turn …
The Antigone 2004 (PDO Sitia) consists of 80% Liatiko and 20% Mandilaria (Voidomati). A true legend, incredibly refined. In the glass, pale garnet with amber highlights. Complex aromas of dried cherries, figs, Mediterranean herbs, leather, and a hint of vanilla. It actually seems younger than the Mirabello 2015. On the palate, a revelation: from the very first millisecond, aromas, acidity, sweetness, and incredibly polished tannins unite in perfect harmony. Powerful, elegant, and unforgettable. I initially gave it 97 points early last year. After drinking it again on New Year's Eve, I have to revise that upward to 98 points. One of the finest Greek red wines — and this time there's broad consensus among Greek and non-Greek wine critics: Paul Gegas awards 97 points, as does Yannis Athanasakopoulos. Wine & Spirits gives 96 points, Int'l Wine Review 96–97 points — and the two Masters of Wine Susie Barrie and Peter Richards are positively effusive, declaring it their wine of the year. (18/20 from Jancis Robinson is nothing to scoff at either, but comparatively restrained.) €120 is no small sum, but in this case entirely justified. Drink now or cellar for another decade.
Given the quality of the last wine, I await the Antigone 1999 with great anticipation — it's reportedly due for release this year. One may as well voice the thought that many are likely having: will it be a 100-point wine?
For a deliberately anti-climactic finale, the wine that comes closest to that eagerly awaited vintage: the Sitia 2000 from Domaine Economou, also a classic 80:20 blend of Liatiko and Mandilaria. I unfortunately only had it from a bottle I purchased online in Greece. The storage, as the cork revealed, was probably not first-rate. Even so, the wine shows appealing maturity with complex aromas of wild herbs, caramel, and earthy thyme, plus a surprisingly fresh acidity. The slightly fading finish may be attributable to the 12% ABV or to the suboptimal storage. The estate has earned my benefit of the doubt, and I suspect the latter factor played a significant role — from well-stored bottles, this should be around 94 points. (Wein.plus gives it 85 points … that's truly laughable and impossible to take seriously.) If I ever get my hands on a properly cellared bottle, I'll report back, of course.
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