Xinomavro Masterclass

For 2024, we set out to explore Xinomavro systematically, one of Greece's most noble grape varieties. So over the course of the year, we opened numerous bottles from different regions, styles, and vintages to deepen our understanding of the various terroirs by tasting them side by side. After all, you often learn more from such focused tastings than from opening the odd bottle here and there. We begin our journey in the Naoussa PDO, continue on to the Amyndeo PDO, and then explore other regions and styles, including some surprising discoveries – even from outside Greece!

PDO Naoussa: The Classic Home of Xinomavro

Naoussa, set on the slopes of Mount Vermio in Macedonia, has long been regarded as the home of Xinomavro. The combination of elevation, climate, and soil creates ideal conditions for this demanding grape variety, producing wines known for their structure, complexity, and above all their remarkable aging potential.

Our exploration begins with more recent vintages. The 2021 Earth and Sky from Apostolos Thymiopoulos (not pictured above, but a wine we enjoyed on two other occasions this year) offers a superb interpretation of what Naoussa is capable of – a juicy wine with a long, captivating finish. 91 points.

The 2019 vintage delivered mixed results. The Ramnista from Kir-Yianni showed surprising signs of premature aging despite proper storage. Notes of cream and dark cherry on the nose attest to malolactic fermentation and are not unappealing at all. The finish, however, disappointed, with flavors that faded quickly. Just 88 points. A second bottle to rule out bottle variation would have been useful.

Ironically, the Cuvée Village from the same vintage turned out to be far more compelling. A buttery, fruity nose gives way to a round, supple palate with generous plum notes. While the finish was once again somewhat short, the wine is undoubtedly eminently drinkable. 90 points.

As expected, Cavino's entry-level Naoussa proved less impressive: while it showed typical varietal aromas and avoided major flaws, it failed to spark any real enthusiasm. 84 points. Still, that makes it one of the better Greek wines at Lidl.

Unfortunately, the 2018 Ramnista was slightly corked and showed off-notes of rotten tomato. Ramnista is normally a very reliable wine. This time, though, we clearly had some bad luck with both vintage and bottle variation. Even so, the perfect balance of tannin and sweetness still came through. 90 points.

Its younger sibling, the 2017, showed a rounder profile with hints of raisin on the nose, even if it was somewhat lacking in complexity. 90 points. Not bad – but still not enough for the name and the vintage. And this time, a faulty bottle can hardly be to blame.

Speaking of 2017, it's worth pausing here to discuss a wine that deserves special attention, even though we tasted it on another occasion: the Vrana Petra by Thymiopoulos.

To cut to the chase: this is the finest Greek red we have ever tasted. It ranks above even Economou's 2004 Antigone (we'll see how the 1999 Antigone shows, if and when it finally hits the market). From the moment it's poured, it fills the room with intense aromas. The polished tannins and endless finish create an experience that goes beyond what we typically expect from Xinomavro. While we think highly of the same producer's Earth and Sky, this is simply in a different league. 99+ points. The gap between this wine and the next-best PDO Naoussa wines in this tasting was, regrettably, rather wide. Next time we'll have to make a point of filling that gap ...

Continuing our journey through the vintages, the 2016 Merhali from Kelesidi showed promise on the appealing nose, but in the end aggressive tannins and alcoholic heat won out. 86 points.

The Tsantalis 2015 Reserve, aged for three years in small barriques, offered notes of butter and mocha on the nose, but disappointed on the palate, which was thin, with a short finish. 85 points.

A downward trend? When would the much-vaunted aging potential finally show itself? Unfortunately, not yet with the 2006 Ramnista. The tannins were beautifully fine. But it had simply already lost too much of its primary fruit. Once again, no luck with Ramnista! It was as if the wine were jinxed. A very disappointing 86 points.

Against this backdrop, the 1992 Tsantali Reserve came as a genuine revelation. Its malty nose gave way to a surprisingly fresh

The palate shows impeccably preserved tannins – a testament to Xinomavro's ageing potential. 92 points.

The 1988 from the Naoussa co-operative winery also showed well, with lively acidity and hints of raspberry and dark berry fruit, albeit clearly past its peak. 85 points.

There was hope, then, that the 1987 Boutari Grand Reserve might climb back into higher-scoring territory. Sadly, it was marred by cork taint, even though the nose still offered clear aromas of dried fruit before the wine disappointed on the palate. 84 points – and the end of an interesting tasting, though one that rarely delivered much pleasure.

PDO Amyndeo: Xinomavro's High-Altitude Expression

The Amyndeo PDO holds a unique place among Greek wine regions as the only PDO where Xinomavro may be produced not only as red but also as rosé and sparkling wine. Vineyards at elevations of around 600 meters, combined with the cooling influence of four surrounding lakes, create ideal conditions for fresher, more elegant expressions of Xinomavro.

Sparkling Wines and Rosés

We open with Kir-Yianni's Akakies Sparkling 2023, which makes an immediate impression with its beautiful hue and delightful strawberry aromatics.

The first sip reveals a thrilling interplay between bitter notes and pronounced acidity. At under €15, it represents exceptional value. 88 points.

The still rosés showcase the great diversity possible in this category.

Kir-Yianni's 2023 L'Esprit du Lac, an old-vine bottling, proved to be one of the standout rosés of the year. Vivid lilac on the nose gives way to intense strawberry on the palate, while its texture marries crystalline acidity with chalky tannins and just the right level of sweetness. A long finish rounds off an altogether impressive package. 91+ points. The 2021 vintage proved even more compelling, having evolved beautifully, with heightened aromatics and complexity. 93 points. This confirms, once again, our mantra: high-quality rosé and white wines are drunk far too young in Greek restaurants.

Of course, there are exceptions. Kir-Yianni's still Akakies 2021 shows how Xinomavro rosé ages, the two years of bottle age showing on the nose as overripe strawberry shading into mushroom. Even so, it makes an excellent introduction to the more extracted style of Xinomavro rosé. 87 points.

The Alpha Estate Single Vineyard "Hedgehog" Rosé makes for an interesting vertical comparison.

Both the 2021 and 2020 vintages are showing their age, particularly on the nose, while remaining supple on the palate. The 2020 is the more complete of the two (90 points), edging out its younger sibling (88 points). A shame we had no 2021 left in the cellar.

Red Wines

Among the reds, the 2019 vintage is something of a mixed bag.

The entry-level Reserve from Amyndaion Winery shows typical varietal aromas on the nose but disappoints on the palate. 81 points. As mentioned, at LIDL you're better off reaching for the PDO Naoussa wine.

Kir-Yianni's Kali Riza from the same vintage needed time to open up, but ultimately showed well, even if we might have expected more from the vintage. 89 points. It seems, then, that it wasn't only the Ramnista we struggled to warm to this year, but the estate's reds across the board – though we're not quite done yet!

The more compelling reds come from Alpha Estate's 2017 vintage. The Hedgehog, aged for 12 months in French oak, followed by a further 12 months in bottle, has now entered its ideal drinking window. It offers a complex array of notes of blackberry, smoke and herbs. 93 points.

Its big brother, the legendary Barba Yannis Reserve (aged for 24 months in new French oak from the Allier and Jupilles forests), doesn't quite scale the heights of certain earlier vintages, but still impresses with its density, salinity, and rich raspberry notes. It shows the same character it did at the first tasting, suggesting significant ageing potential. To be perfectly honest, though, the entry-level wine is far more approachable and offers more drinking pleasure right now. 90+ points.

Single-Varietal Xinomavro Reds Beyond the PDOs: Surprising Discoveries

Having toured Naoussa and Amyndeo, the two PDOs famous for single-varietal Xinomavro, in this next instalment of our series we turn to how this noble variety performs outside its traditional heartland – even beyond Greece itself. What makes these wines particularly interesting is that, unbound by PDO regulations, winemakers are free to interpret Xinomavro on their own terms. Some of these interpretations proved remarkably successful, even outshining some of their PDO counterparts, while others revealed the challenges of working with this demanding variety. We taste through these wines from the youngest vintage to the oldest to understand how different terroirs and winemaking approaches shape Xinomavro's character.

Our journey begins, surprisingly, in Turkey. The 2021 Xinomavro from Chamlija in the Strandzha Mountains immediately piqued our curiosity. Fermented in open-top vats and aged for 10 months in French oak, this wine challenges preconceptions. While we initially expected it to mirror the style of the cool-climate Amyndeo wines, it actually has more in common with the natural-wine approach from Drama (see the Oenops wine just below). Its moderate 11% alcohol suits the wine's light, fresh profile marked by vibrant redcurrant notes. A charming interpretation of the variety. 91 points.

Staying with 2021, we come across Oenops' XinomavRaw, a prime example of the exciting natural wine movement in Greece. Spontaneously fermented and matured in egg-shaped amphorae with no added sulphur, this unfiltered wine offers a wonderfully fresh nose that brings together green apple and red strawberry. While it doesn't hold up well on the second day, its bright, energetic character means that's hardly a problem – the bottle empties quickly. 93 points.

Patistis's 2019 Kamara Hill (PGI Magnesia) demonstrates how old vines, spontaneous fermentation, and élevage split between oak and amphora can achieve exceptional results. It's hardly a looker in the glass, but it more than makes up for it with striking sage aromas and powerful yet remarkably well-balanced tannins. The texture strikes a rare balance between grainy grip and elegance, culminating in a long, pure finish. Another triumph for amphora-aged Xinomavro. 93 points.

Turning to the 2018 vintage: the Valos from Ktima Katsarou (PGI Thessalia) proves that even established producers can struggle with Xinomavro. Despite the estate's well-known Bordeaux blends and exceptional Chardonnays, its Xinomavro disappoints, marred by off-putting barnyard notes and overwhelming bitterness. 84 points.

The 2017 Xinomavro from Diofili (Siatista PGI) showcases the potential of 70-year-old vines, offering intriguing marzipan notes. However, its thin palate keeps it from leaving a lasting impression. 87 points.

The Aidarinis 2016 SI-LA-VIE (Slopes of Paiko PGI) presents an interesting case – a wine that would qualify for Goumenissa PDO did it include the required Negoska component. (More on the estate's wines in this category below.) After 24 months in oak, it shows mature notes of smoked paprika and dark chocolate, with a curious coppery, coin-like note on the finish. Its sensitivity to temperature makes serving it at the right temperature essential to preserving its Xinomavro character. Served too warm, it comes across as a mediocre Merlot. 88 points.

We conclude our exploration with the 2015 Xinomavro from Karadimos (PGI Opountias). The color clearly betrays its age, with pronounced bricking. Behind that evolved robe, however, aromas of tomato and raisin lead to a palate of powerful tannins, framed by intense herbal and spicy notes. A complex wine that will particularly appeal to those who appreciate Xinomavro's more rustic side. 91 points.

Xinomavro in Red Blends: PDO Goumenissa

Our Xinomavro journey now takes us into the realm of blends, beginning with PDO Goumenissa. This appellation takes a fascinating approach to Xinomavro, which mandates blending with the local Negoska variety. By law, Xinomavro must make up at least 70% of the blend, with Negoska providing the rest. This partnership often produces wines of notable elegance, with Negoska's softer character helping to tame Xinomavro's powerful tannins. (So the story goes, at least – the few varietal Negoskas I've tasted make me read that claim with raised eyebrows.)

Beginning with the most recent vintages, 2019 emerges as an exciting vintage for Goumenissa, with two outstanding bottlings. Kir-Yianni's Single Vineyard Bidabla, an 80-20 blend of Xinomavro and Negoska, ranks among the most elegant Goumenissa wines we have encountered. The texture is superb, with complex tannins and a captivating interplay of tomato and violet aromas. While the first sip suggests world-class potential, it does not quite sustain that level throughout – the mid-palate falls noticeably short. Still, for a wine whose inaugural vintage was as recent as 2017, it is remarkably impressive. Notably, we preferred it to both the famous Ramnista and the solid Cuvée Village from the same vintage in PDO Naoussa. 93 points.

The other 2019 highlight comes from Mikro Ktima (Titos), a satellite estate of Ktima Biblia Chora. Made from the same 80/20 blend, the wine is co-fermented, then aged in a combination of seasoned 500-litre Slavonian oak casks and barriques. It impresses with its intensely concentrated sour-cherry fruit on nose and palate, complemented by subtle allspice notes. Interestingly, it shows few typical Xinomavro characteristics – in a blind tasting, it could easily pass for an international wine. While the acidity dazzles and the medium-length finish hints at ageing potential, this wine probably needs more time to reveal its full complexity. 92+ points.

Reaching further back, to the 2018 vintage, we find Aidarini's standard Goumenissa bottling with a 70/30 blend of Xinomavro and Negoska. It offers a rustic yet juicy expression of the appellation. Despite firm tannins and noticeable alcohol, attractive strawberry notes still shine through. The wine serves as a solid introduction to the Goumenissa PDO. 90 points.

Our exploration concludes with Aidarini's 2012 Single Vineyard bottling, which offers insight into how these wines age. While it shows clear signs of maturity in both color and nose, it retains an herbal, somewhat austere profile. Tannins and acidity still give the palate good grip. Much of the primary fruit has faded, however – though that may be down to less-than-ideal storage, as the bottle was a recent gift. 87 points.

Xinomavro in Red Blends: PDO Rapsani

Our exploration of Xinomavro blends continues with PDO Rapsani, where the variety takes part in one of Greece's most distinctive traditional cuvées. Here, on the slopes of Mount Olympus, Xinomavro joins forces with two local varieties, Krassato and Stavroto, to create wines that have earned a chapter of their own in Greek wine history.

For this segment, we focus on wines from Tsantali, a producer that has been all but synonymous with PDO Rapsani for decades. Admittedly, that's because we had nothing else left in the cellar. Still, this did give us the opportunity to taste three vintages spanning more than a decade, offering insights into how these unique blends evolve – and revealing the significant differences between the estate's standard, Reserve, and Grand Reserve bottlings.

Our vertical tasting begins with the regular 2013 bottling, though perhaps it shouldn't have. Purchased on eBay – always a risk with wine – this bottle turned out to be a cautionary tale about provenance and storage. While the cork appeared sound and the color showed no obvious signs of trouble, the wine itself was seriously faulty. The nose revealed pronounced musty, moldy notes, followed by an unbalanced palate with scattered, disjointed flavors. A hot, burning finish sealed its fate. 75 points.

Fortunately, the story improves dramatically with the 2012 Grand Reserve (Idika Epilegmenos). This wine undergoes extended maturation: 18 months in barrel, followed by another 18 months in bottle before release. The result is a completely different experience from its younger sibling. It explodes from the glass with dark berry fruit, underpinned by smoky complexity. While some may find the aromatics too manufactured, given its age, the freshness this wine retains is undeniably impressive. It is without doubt one of the better Greek wines of the 2012 vintage still to be found on the market. 91 points.

Our journey back in time culminates with the 2000 "Mount Olymp" Reserve. Despite its advanced age and a shorter spell in barrel than the Grand Reserve, this wine shows remarkable vitality. Despite its slightly lower alcohol (13% vs. 13.5%), it bears a surprising aromatic resemblance to the 2012 Grand Reserve. The tertiary aromas that have developed over its two decades of life are beautifully woven into the fabric of the wine. While it has reached its peak and should not be cellared any longer, it retains impressive energy and structure. Regrettably, we can only speculate as to how that vintage's Grand Reserve would have compared. 90 points.

Xinomavro in Red Blends: Beyond PDO Regulations

Having explored Xinomavro in its traditional PDO expressions, we now venture into what is perhaps the most exciting territory of all: innovative blends from producers working outside the PDO framework. These wines reveal both the versatility of Xinomavro and the creativity of modern Greek winemakers. We taste through them in descending order of Xinomavro content, discovering how different blending partners and proportions shape the finished wine.

Blends with a High Xinomavro Share

The journey begins with Kir-Yianni's 2018 Diaporos Single Vineyard (92% Xinomavro, 8% Syrah). The PGI Imathia designation may come as a surprise, since the vineyard lies in Naoussa. However, that small splash of Syrah rules it out of PDO status – and what a wonderful decision that was! Despite spending 18 months in oak, this is anything but a rustic wine. It delivers an explosion of delicious tomato aromatics, leading into a welcoming texture on the palate and a thrilling, persistent finish. A subtle smoky note adds complexity, while the hefty 15% alcohol is seamlessly integrated. A true outlier, it effortlessly outclasses many celebrated PDO wines from the same region. 94 points.

A blend led by 65% Xinomavro, the 2019 Red Rhapsody from Kotoulas rounds out the variety with 35% Syrah. After 12 months in 250-litre French oak, the wine shows less pronounced Xinomavro character on the nose. Firm, grippy tannins and a somewhat unyielding structure suggest it needs more time to fully knit together, with the Syrah contributing welcome flesh. 88 points.

Equal Partners and Creative Combinations

The 2017 Axia from Alpha Estates (PGI Florina) demonstrates how a 50/50 blend of Xinomavro and Syrah can yield genuinely compelling results. This incredibly fruity wine bursts with bright raspberry notes and shows no signs of tiring. While it will develop beautifully over the next five years, even now it represents excellent value, with a long finish and vibrant fruit. In a recent tasting, it even clearly outshone the S.M.X. from the same vintage. But more on that later… 90 points.

The 2010 Deka X from Oenogenesis (50% Xinomavro, 50% Merlot) recently found itself at the centre of controversy when wine critic Simos Georgopoulos savaged a later vintage (2011). This wine, however, aged for 24 months in oak, turns out to be outstanding. While its profile is distinctly oxidative, it carries this off with great finesse. The nose offers distinct raisin notes, while the palate presents a lovely interplay between sweetness and acidity. Firm tannins leave room for herbal and aromatic complexity reminiscent of Economou's wines – about the highest compliment one can pay a wine in this style. 93 points.

Creative Minority Blends

The 2017 Arothimies from Ktima Kelesidis (PGI Imathia) is an unusual blend: 60% Xinomavro with equal parts Merlot and Syrah (20% each). Even more unusual is its off-dry style (17 g/l of residual sugar) despite its 14% alcohol. With its prominent violet aromas and echoes of Nama (the sweet Greek sacramental wine), this is a distinctive wine that won't be to everyone's taste but is masterfully executed. 88 points.

The 2017 S.M.X. from Alpha Estates (PGI Florina) dials Xinomavro back to just 20% in a blend dominated by Syrah (60%) and rounded out by Merlot (20%). Recently, we tasted the S.M.X. and the Axia from the same vintage side by side, and the former showed surprisingly closed. In this rematch, however, the flagship once again revealed its true strengths with impressive concentration and power. Rich blackberry and vanilla on the nose give way to tannins that are silkier than in the wine's youth. Drink now or cellar for another decade. 92 points.

Last but not least ...

We close with Oenops' 2020 APLA. It appears last only because it doesn't slot neatly into the preceding lineup. Here Xinomavro again takes the lion's share (50%), joined by Limniona (30%) and Mavroudi (20%). The name – "simple" – is misleading: this wine delivers surprising complexity. Vibrant strawberry and cherry notes from the Limniona shine through, while the Mavroudi lends just the right depth. Even at a premium price for an "entry-level" wine (around €10 in Germany), it over-delivers. 91 points.

Xinomavro's Other Colors: From Rosé to Blanc de Noir

Our extensive exploration of Xinomavro concludes with its expressions beyond red. While we've already covered the PDO Amyndeo rosés above, there is a fascinating world of non-PDO rosés to discover. (And a real surprise awaits at the very end.) On to the rosés…

Single-Varietal Rosés

Leading off our exploration is Ktima Gerovassiliou's 2020 Xinomavro Rosé (PGI Thessaloniki). Fresh aromas of green apple and strawberry lead to a palate with razor-sharp acidity and impressive grip. Even under screwcap and with four years of bottle age, it retains remarkable freshness. While it's more lively than Alpha Estate's Hedgehog from the same vintage, it doesn't quite reach the elegance of Kir-Yianni's L'Esprit De Lac (see above under PDO Amyndeon). Still, its vibrant energy makes it thoroughly enjoyable. 91 points.

With its 2021 Heilia Stafylia Xinomavro Rosé (PGI Opountias Lokridas), Karadimos offers a wine notable for its unusually deep color, with a hint of lime on the nose. On the palate, it shows an appealing balance of sweetness, tannin, and acidity, making for a playful, bonbon-like impression – quality confectionery, not cheap sweets. 88 points.

The Aidarini winery offers two contrasting interpretations. The 2018 SI-LA-VIE Gris de Noir (PGI Slopes of Paiko) captivates with intense sun-dried tomato aromas and assertive acidity. Partial maturation in French oak adds tension, though the wine could use a touch more aromatic complexity. The finish is impressively long. 90 points. There's more to come here – not from this vintage, but from this concept!

The same estate's 2021 entry-level Rosé shows a different expression, with bold, ripe strawberry notes on the nose and palate alike. Despite its deep color, it lacks a touch of extract to support the structure. That said, the wine remains approachable and, on the whole, convincing. 88 points.

Innovative Blends

Among the blends, Patistis marries Xinomavro with just a hint of Moschato in their 2021 Rosé. The result is subtly aromatic, with hints of dried rose petal courtesy of the Moschato, while strawberry notes dominate the palate. A chalky texture adds interest, though the wine is a touch out of balance. 87 points.

The 2021 Diofilis (PGI Siatista) marries Xinomavro (70%) with Moschomavro (30%), yielding floral aromatics that verge on overpowering. A lingering, coin-like metallic note on the finish may divide opinion, but it makes for a singular experience for adventurous palates. 86 points.

Next come more complex blends. TsillisTerres' 2021 IÓ Rosé (PGI Thessalia) combines Xinomavro with both Syrah and Limniona. This fresh, youthful wine lets the vibrant aromas of each variety shine. Just don't wait quite as long as we did to open this one – as the screwcap already suggests. 88 points.

In a similar vein, Oenops' 2021 APLA Rosé blends Xinomavro with Limniona and Mavroudi, producing a mouthwatering, fresh wine with just the right amount of sweetness that keeps you reaching for another glass. Even if it doesn't quite match the complexity of their red APLA, this is a delicious wine in the best sense of the word. 89 points.

A Grand Finale

We conclude our Xinomavro journey with a truly special wine: Patistis' Blanc de Noir NV, blending Xinomavro (96%) with a touch of Assyrtiko (4%).

This brilliant concept combines yeasty notes and green-apple aromas with a palate where tannins, acidity, and a subtle touch of CO₂ strike a thrilling balance. The unexpected light spritz works wonderfully in this wine – one that can win over even the staunchest natural-wine skeptics. A perfect finale to our exploration – proof of Xinomavro's remarkable versatility. 93 points.