For the year 2024, we set out to systematically explore Xinomavro, one of Greece's most noble grape varieties. Over the course of the year, we opened numerous bottles from various regions, styles, and vintages to gain a deeper understanding of the different terroirs in comparison. Such concentrated tastings often yield more insights than when one opens the occasional bottle sporadically. We begin our journey in the PDO Naoussa, continue in the PDO Amyndeo, and then explore additional regions and styles, including some surprising discoveries—even from outside Greece!
PDO Naoussa: The Classical Home of Xinomavro
Naoussa, situated on the slopes of Mount Vermio in Macedonia, has long been considered the spiritual home of Xinomavro. The region's combination of altitude, climate, and soils creates ideal conditions for this demanding variety, producing wines known for their structure, complexity, and remarkable aging potential.
Our exploration begins with recent vintages. The 2021 Earth and Sky from Apostolos Thymiopoulos (which was not part of that lineup, but which we had on two different occassions in 2023 and 2024) offers a great interpretation of what Naoussa can deliver - a juicy wine with a compelling long aftertaste. 91 points.
Moving to 2019, we encountered mixed results. The Ramnista from Kir-Yianni showed surprising age despite proper storage, with cream and dark cherries in the nose, but disappointed with its quickly fading taste. 88 points.
Interestingly, their Cuvée Village from the same vintage proved more successful, offering a buttery-fruity nose and a round, smooth palate marked by plum notes. While the aftertaste was somewhat short, it's a thoroughly enjoyable wine. 90 points.
Exepectedly less impressive was Cavino's basic Naoussa which, while showing typical varietal aromas and avoiding major flaws, failed to excite. 84 points.
The 2018 Ramnista was unfortunately slightly corked, showing overtones of rotten tomatoes, though we could still appreciate the perfect balance between tannins and sweetness. 90 points. Its younger sibling from 2017 presented a rounder profile with hints of raisin in the nose, though it lacked some complexity. 90 points.
Speaking of 2017, we must pause here to discuss a wine that deserves special attention (though we tasted it on another occassion): the Vrana Petra from Thymiopoulos.
This wine stands as possibly the finest Greek red wine we've ever tasted. From the moment it's poured, it fills the room with intense aromas. The polished tannins and endless finish create an experience that transcends what we typically expect from Xinomavro. While we love the Earth and Sky from the same producer, this is simply a different class altogether. 99+ points.
Continuing our chronological journey, the 2016 Merhali from Kelesidi showed promise with an appealing nose, but the aggressive tannins and alcohol heat ultimately dominated. 86 points.
Tsantali's 2015 Reserve, aged three years in small barriques, offered buttery and mocha notes on the nose but disappointed with a thin palate and fleeting finish. 85 points.
Would we ever encounter the famous ability of PDO Naoussa wines to age? Not with the 2006 Ramnista, unfortunately. It had lost too much primary fruit despite its fine tannins. 86 points.
But the 1992 Tsantali Reserve proved a revelation. Its malty nose led to a surprisingly fresh palate, with perfectly preserved tannins demonstrating Xinomavro's aging potential. 92 points.
The 1988 from the Naoussa Wine Producers Cooperative showed well too, with lively acidity and hints of raspberry and dark berries, though clearly past its peak. 85 points.
So there was hope for the final bottle. However, unfortunately, the 1987 Boutari Grand Reserve suffered from cork issues, though the nose still offered clear dried fruit aromas before disappointing on the palate. 84 points.
PDO Amynteo: Xinomavro's High-Altitude Expression
PDO Amynteo stands unique among Greek wine regions, being the only PDO where Xinomavro is permitted not just as a red wine, but also as rosé and sparkling wine. The high-altitude vineyards, situated at around 600 meters, combined with the cooling influence of four surrounding lakes, create ideal conditions for producing fresher, more elegant expressions of Xinomavro.
Sparkling and Rosé Wines
We begin with Kir-Yianni's Akakies Sparkling 2023, which immediately impresses with its lovely color and beautiful strawberry aromas. The first sip reveals an exciting interplay of bitterness and strong acidity. At under 15 euros, it offers exceptional value. 88 points.
The still rosé wines show the incredible diversity possible within this category. The 2023 L'Esprit du Lac from Kir-Yianni, made from old vines, emerged as one of the year's standout rosés. It captivates with vibrant lilac aromas and intense strawberry notes on the palate, while its texture balances crystal clear acidity with chalky tannins and just the right touch of sweetness. The long aftertaste completes an impressive package. 91+ points. The 2021 vintage proved even more compelling, showing perfect development with enhanced aromatics and complexity. 93 points. This once again proves: high quality white and rosé wines are often opened way too early in Greek gastronomy!
Of course, this is not the case for all wines: The still Akakies 2021 from Kir-Yianni demonstrates how Xinomavro rosé evolves, with the two years of age evident in its nose of overripe strawberries verging on mushroom notes. But it serves as an excellent introduction to the more extracted style of Xinomavro rosé. 87 points.
Finally, Alpha Estate's Single Vineyard Hedgehog Rosé offers an interesting vertical comparison. Both the 2021 and 2020 vintages show their age, particularly in the nose, while maintaining smooth palate profiles. The 2020 vintage achieves greater completeness (90 points) compared to its younger sibling (88 points).
Red Wines
Moving to the reds, the 2019 vintage presents contrasting experiences.
The entry-level Reserve from Amyndaion Winery, while showing typical varietal aromas in the nose, disappoints on the palate. 81 points.
Kir-Yianni's Kali Riza from the same year needed time to open but ultimately made a good impression, though one might have expected more from this vintage. 89 points. Again, we weren't really lucky with this winery this year ... but the article is not over yet ...
The standout reds come from Alpha Estate's 2017 vintage. The Hedgehog, aged 12 months in French oak barrels followed by 12 months in bottle, has reached its perfect drinking window. It offers a complex array of blackberry, smoke, and herbal notes. 93 points.
Its big brother, the legendary Barba Yannis Reserve (aged 24 months in new Allier-Jupille French oak), while not quite matching some previous vintages, still impresses with its density, salinity, and abundant raspberry notes. It maintains the same character as when first tasted, suggesting significant aging potential. But there is no denying: the entry wine is more enjoyable right now. 90+ points.
Monovarietal Red Xinomavro Wines Beyond the PDOs: Surprising Discoveries
After exploring Naoussa and Amynteo, the two PDOs famous for monovarietal Xinomavro, our journey takes an exciting turn. We're about to discover how this noble variety performs outside its traditional homes—including, surprisingly, beyond Greece's borders. What makes these wines particularly interesting is their freedom from PDO regulations, allowing winemakers to interpret Xinomavro through their own lens. Some of these interpretations proved remarkably successful, even outperforming certain PDO wines, while others revealed the challenges of working with this demanding variety. We'll explore these wines chronologically, from youngest to oldest, to understand how different terroirs and winemaking approaches shape Xinomavro's character.
Our journey begins, unexpectedly, in Turkey. The 2021 Xinomavro from Chamlija in the Strandja Mountains immediately piqued our curiosity. Made using open-top fermentation and aged for 10 months in French oak barrels, this wine challenges preconceptions. While we initially expected it to mirror the style of cool-climate Amynteo wines, it actually shares more similarities with the natural wine approach of Drama (cf. next wine). Its modest 11% alcohol complements a light, fresh profile marked by vibrant red currant aromas. A charming interpretation of the variety. 91 points.
Staying with 2021, we encounter Oenops' XinomavRaw, which exemplifies the exciting natural wine movement in Greece. Spontaneously fermented and aged in egg-shaped amphorae without added sulfites, this unfiltered wine offers a wonderfully fresh nose combining green apple and red strawberry. While it doesn't hold up well on the second day, its bright, energetic profile makes this hardly a concern—the bottle tends to empty quickly. 93 points.
The 2019 Kamara Hill from Patistis (PGI Magnesia) demonstrates how old vines, spontaneous fermentation, and mixed aging in oak and amphora can yield exceptional results. Though visually understated, it compensates with distinctive sage aromas and remarkably well-balanced powerful tannins. The texture achieves a rare combination of grittiness and elegance, finishing long and clean. Another triumph for amphora-aged Xinomavro. 93 points.
Moving to 2018, the Valos from Ktima Katsarou (PGI Thessalia) proves that even accomplished producers can struggle with Xinomavro. Despite the winery's renowned Bordeaux-style blends and exceptional Chardonnay, their Xinomavro disappoints with off-putting barnyard aromas and overwhelming bitterness. 84 points.
The 2017 Xinomavro from Diofili (PGI Siatista) shows the potential of 70-year-old vines, offering intriguing marzipan notes. However, the palate's thinness prevents it from making a lasting impression. 87 points.
Aidarini's 2016 SI-LA-VIE (PGI Slopes of Paiko) represents an interesting case—a wine that would qualify for PDO Goumenissa if it included the required Negoska grape. Aged 24 months in oak, it displays mature characteristics of smoked pepper and dark chocolate, with a curious metallic note in the finish. Temperature sensitivity makes proper serving crucial to maintain its Xinomavro character. 88 points.
Our exploration concludes with the 2015 Xinomavro from Karadimos (PGI Opountias). Despite—or perhaps because of—its age, this wine offers a compelling expression of mature Xinomavro. Its brownish hue and nose of tomato and dried raisins lead to a palate where fierce tannins coat the mouth with herbaceous and spicy intensity. A complex wine that will particularly appeal to those who appreciate Xinomavro's more rustic side. 91 points.
Xinomavro in Red Blends: PDO Goumenissa
Our Xinomavro journey now takes us into the realm of blends, starting with PDO Goumenissa. This appellation presents a fascinating approach to Xinomavro, requiring it to be blended with the local Negoska variety. By law, Xinomavro must constitute at least 70% of the blend, with Negoska making up the remainder. This partnership often yields wines of particular elegance, where Negoska's softer character helps tame Xinomavro's fierce tannins. (Alledgdly ... the few monovarietal Negoska wines that I have make it difficult for me to understand that claim.)
Starting with the most recent vintages, 2019 proves to be an exciting year for Goumenissa, with two standout releases. Kir-Yianni's Single Vineyard Bidabla, an 80-20 blend of Xinomavro and Negoska, ranks among the most elegant Goumenissa wines we've encountered. The texture is superb, featuring complex tannins and a captivating interplay between tomato and violet aromas. While the initial sip suggests world-class potential, it doesn't quite maintain that level throughout. Nevertheless, for a wine whose first vintage was only produced in 2017, it's remarkably impressive. Notably, we preferred it to both the famous Ramnista and the solid Cuvée Village from PDO Naoussa of the same vintage. 93 points.
The other 2019 standout comes from Mikro Ktima (Titos), a satellite winery of Ktima Biblia Chora. Using the same 80-20 blend ratio, their wine undergoes co-fermentation followed by aging in a combination of used 500L Slavonian oak barrels and barriques. It's striking for its intense concentration of tart cherry on both nose and palate, complemented by subtle allspice notes. Interestingly, it shows few typical Xinomavro characteristics—in a blind tasting, one might mistake it for an international wine. While the acidity shines and the medium-length aftertaste suggests promise, this wine likely needs more time to reveal its full complexity. 92+ points.
Moving back to 2018, we find Aidarini's regular Goumenissa bottling, featuring a 70-30 split between Xinomavro and Negoska. It offers a rustic yet juicy expression of the appellation. Despite bold tannins and noticeable alcohol, attractive strawberry notes manage to shine through. It serves as a solid introduction for those new to Goumenissa's unique style. 90 points.
Our exploration concludes with Aidarini's 2012 Single Vineyard bottling, offering insights into how these wines age. While showing clear signs of maturity in both color and nose, it maintains a herbaceous, somewhat austere profile. The tannins and acidity still provide good grip across the palate. However, much of the primary fruit has faded—though this might be attributed to suboptimal storage, as this bottle was a recent gift. While not matching the level of younger vintages, it remains an intriguing experience. 87 points.
Xinomavro in Red Blends: PDO Rapsani
Our exploration of Xinomavro blends continues with PDO Rapsani, where the variety participates in one of Greece's most distinctive traditional blends. Here, on the slopes of Mount Olympus, Xinomavro joins forces with two local varieties, Krassato and Stavroto, creating wines that have earned their own chapter in Greek wine history.
For this segment, we focus on wines from Tsantali, a producer that has been virtually synonymous with PDO Rapsani for decades. While it was unfortunate that we did not have other producers in our cellar, this at least gave us the opportunity to taste three vintages spanning more than a decade, offering insights into how these unique blends evolve over time, as well as the significant differences between the winery's regular, reserve, and grand reserve bottlings.
Our vertical tasting begins with the 2013 regular bottling, though perhaps it shouldn't have. Purchased from eBay—always a risk with wine—this bottle proved a cautionary tale about storage conditions. While the cork and color appeared sound, the wine itself was deeply flawed. The nose revealed distinct moldy notes, leading to an unbalanced palate with scattered, disjointed flavors. A burning aftertaste sealed its unfortunate fate. 75 points.
Fortunately, the story improves dramatically with the 2012 Grand Reserve (Idika Epilegmenos). This wine undergoes extended aging: 18 months in barrels followed by another 18 months in bottle before release. The result is an entirely different experience from the younger wine. It bursts with dark berry flavors layered with smoky complexity. While some might find certain flavors a bit too contrived, there's no denying its impressive freshness despite its age. It stands as one of the better Greek wines from the 2012 vintage still available in the market. 91 points.
Our journey through time culminates with the 2000 "Mount Olymp" Reserve. Despite its advanced age and shorter barrel aging regimen compared to the Grand Reserve, this wine demonstrates remarkable vitality. Though it shows slightly lower alcohol (13% versus 13.5%), it shares surprising aromatic similarities with the 2012 Grand Reserve. The tertiary aromas that have developed over its two decades of life are beautifully integrated into the wine's fabric. While it has reached its peak and shouldn't be held any longer, it remains remarkably strong and well-structured. One can only wonder how the Grand Reserve from this vintage would show in comparison ... (Let me know if you have tased one!). 90 points.
Xinomavro in Red Blends: Beyond PDO Regulations
Having explored Xinomavro in its traditional PDO expressions, we now venture into perhaps the most exciting territory: innovative blends from producers unrestricted by PDO regulations. These wines reveal both Xinomavro's versatility and modern Greek winemakers' creativity. We'll explore these wines in order of decreasing Xinomavro content, discovering how different blending partners and proportions affect the final wine.
High-Percentage Xinomavro Blends
The journey begins with Kir-Yianni's 2018 Diaporas Single Vineyard (92% Xinomavro, 8% Syrah). The PGI Imathia designation might surprise some, given that the vineyard lies within Naoussa. However, that tiny addition of Syrah disqualifies it from PDO status—and what a wonderful decision that proved to be! Despite 18 months in oak barrels, this is anything but a rustic wine. It offers an explosion of delicious tomato aromas leading to an inviting texture and exciting, lingering finish. A delicate touch of smokiness adds complexity, while the impressive 15% alcohol integrates perfectly. This true standout easily outshines many famous PDO wines from the same area. 94 points.
Moving to a blend with 65% Xinomavro, the 2019 Red Rhapsody from Kotoulas pairs its Xinomavro with 35% Syrah. Aged 12 months in 250L French oak barrels, the wine shows less distinctive Xinomavro character on the nose. Strong tannins and a somewhat rigid structure suggest it needs more time to integrate fully, though the Syrah adds welcome body. Currently at 88 points, with clear potential for improvement.
Equal Partners and Creative Combinations
Alpha Estate's 2017 Axia (PGI Florina) demonstrates how a 50-50 split between Xinomavro and Syrah can yield spectacular results. This incredibly fruity wine bursts with bright raspberry notes, showing no signs of age. While it will continue evolving beautifully over the next five years, its current state offers excellent value, with long aftertaste and vibrant fruit character. 90 points.
The 2010 Deka X from Oenogenesis (50% Xinomavro, 50% Merlot) recently sparked controversy when wine critic Simos Georgopoulos harshly criticized a later vintage. However, this wine, aged 24 months in oak, proves outstanding. While it leans oxidative, it does so with great finesse. The nose offers clear raisin notes, while the palate presents a beautiful interplay of sweetness and acidity. Firm tannins leave room for herbal and aromatic complexity reminiscent of Economou's wines—high praise indeed. 93 points.
Creative Minority Blends
Ktima Kelesidi's 2017 Arothimies (PGI Imathia) presents an unusual combination: 60% Xinomavro with equal parts Merlot and Syrah (20% each). More unusual still is its half-dry style (17g/l residual sugar) despite 14% alcohol. Reminiscent of nama (sweet sacramental wine) with prominent violet aromas, it's a distinctive style that, while not for everyone, is expertly crafted. 88 points.
Alpha Estate's 2017 S.M.X. (PGI Florina) reduces Xinomavro to 20%, dominated by Syrah (60%) and complemented by Merlot (20%). Recently, we had the S.M.X. and the Axia side by side and the former was quite closed and disappointed. But in this rematch, the premium wine showed its true colors with impressive concentration and power. Rich blackberry and vanilla aromas lead to smoother tannins than in its youth. Drink now or cellar for another decade. 92 points.
Last But Not Least
We conclude with Oenops' 2020 APLA. It comes last simply because it does not fit well into the prior sequence. Here, Xinomavro (50%) meets Limniona (30%) and Mavroudi (20%). Don't let the name ("simple") fool you—this wine offers surprising complexity. Vibrant strawberry and cherry notes from the Limniona shine through, while Mavroudi adds perfect depth. Despite its premium price for an "entry-level" wine (ca.€10 in Germany), it delivers excellent value. 91 points.
Xinomavro's Other Colors: From Rosé to Blanc de Noir
Our extensive exploration of Xinomavro concludes with its non-red expressions. While we've already covered the PDO Amynteo rosés in our earlier installments, there's a fascinating world of non-PDO rosés and even a remarkable blanc de noir to discover. Here are the rosé wines:
Monovarietal Rosés
Leading our exploration is the 2020 Xinomavro Rosé from Ktima Gerovassiliou (PGI Thessaloniki). Fresh aromas of green apple and strawberry lead to a palate with laser-sharp acidity and impressive grip. Even with a screw cap and four years of age, it maintains remarkable freshness. While livelier than Alpha Estate's Hedgehog from the same vintage, it doesn't quite match the elegance of Kir-Yianni's L'Esprit De Lac. Nevertheless, its vibrant energy makes it thoroughly enjoyable. 91 points.
Karadimos Winery offers their 2021 Heilia Stafylia Xinomavro Rosé (PGI Opountias Lokridas), notable for its dark color and hint of lime on the nose. The palate presents an engaging balance of sweetness, tannins, and acidity, creating a playful experience reminiscent of candy. 88 points.
Aidarini Winery contributes two distinct interpretations. Their 2018 SI-LA-VIE Gris de Noir (PGI Slopes of Paiko) fascinates with intense dried tomato aromas and dominant acidity. Partial French oak aging adds intrigue, though it could use more aromatic complexity. The long finish impresses. 90 points. Their 2021 standard Rosé offers a different expression, with bold ripe strawberry aromas on both nose and palate. Despite its deep color, it lacks some extract to support its structure, but remains accessible and enjoyable. 88 points.
Innovative Blends
Moving to blends, Patistis combines Xinomavro with just a touch of Moschato in their 2021 rosé. The result shows subtle aromas with hints of dried rose petals from the Moschato, while strawberry notes dominate the palate. A chalky texture adds interest, though the wine shows slight imbalance. 87 points.
Diofili's 2021 blend (PGI Siatista) pairs Xinomavro (70%) with Moschomavro (30%), resulting in almost overpowering floral aromas throughout. A lingering metallic aftertaste might divide opinions, but it offers an unique experience for adventurous wine lovers. 86 points.
More complex blends follow. Tsillisterres' 2021 IÓ Rosé (PGI Thessalia) combines Xinomavro with both Syrah and Limniona. This fresh, youthful wine succeeds in showcasing each variety's vibrant aromas. 88 points.
Similarly, Oenops' 2021 APLA Rosé blends Xinomavro with Limniona and Mavroudi, creating a mouthwatering fresh wine with just enough sweetness to keep you coming back. While not matching their red APLA's complexity, it's thoroughly enjoyable. 89 points.
A Grand Finale
We conclude our Xinomavro journey with a truly special wine: Patistis' Blanc de Noir NV, blending Xinomavro (96%) with a touch of Assyrtiko (4%). This brilliant concept combines yeast and green apple aromas with a palate where tannins, acidity, and a subtle CO2 touch create thrilling balance. The unexpected slight fizz works beautifully in this natural wine that could convert even skeptics. A perfect finale to our exploration, demonstrating Xinomavro's remarkable versatility. 93 points.
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