Weingut Ziereisen – Jaspis Nägelin Chardonnay 2021

The Jaspis Nägelin Chardonnay 2021 from Weingut Ziereisen is, for me, one of the absolute best German Chardonnays. Classified as Badischer Landwein – a deliberate choice by the estate, which forgoes Qualitätswein status in favor of individuality – this 100% Chardonnay from Baden's Markgräflerland is a striking wine. On the nose, it is quite reductive, but there is so much tension underlying this impression. Once it hits the palate, it explodes, and all the aromas are immediately present. There is a rustic frame and an elegant core. "Subtle and honest," as the label says. It doesn't have the complex development of aromas of the very best Chardonnay wines from Burgundy's top Premiers and Grands Crus. But the length of its aftertaste rivals them all. Give it two more years for the wood to integrate a bit more – a wine that earns 95+ points and may well climb higher still.