T-Oinos – Mavrosé 2025

T-Oinos on Tinos is one of the most ambitious wine projects in the Cyclades, born in a granite-boulder landscape that ranks as a protected geological phenomenon, and advised by Stéphane Derenoncourt. Here the Mavrosé is the rosé positioned beneath the Clos Stegasta Rosé, the house's second rosé, so to speak – and there's a charming detail from the team page I can't leave out: the estate dog Markos is listed there as "General Supervisor."

In the glass is a Cycladic blend of 80% Avgoustiatis and 20% Mavrotragano, classified as PGI Cyclades. The grapes come from the Sparveri and Agios Dimitrios parcels at around 400 metres altitude, from granite with sandy loam, from densely planted bush vines at 10,000 plants and only 25 hectolitres per hectare. Picking took place from 8 to 11 September 2025 in small 20-kilo crates in the early morning; then follow direct pressing, temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel with isolated yeasts from the estate's own vineyards, and about three months on the fine lees, entirely without wood. Around 2,500 bottles are made per vintage. The alcohol sits at 13%.

I tasted the Mavrosé 2025 in May 2026 alongside the Clos Stegasta Rosé 2023 – and I'll return to that comparison at the end. As a vintage, 2025 on Tinos was a cooler year that preserved fruit character and acidity; the harvest fell accordingly late, at the start of September, whereas 2024 was already brought in between 21 and 24 August. That is exactly what one finds in the glass.

On the nose it is red-fruited and floral at once. On the palate it is carried by a pleasant acidity, the mouthfeel is very good, almost mouth-coating, with an impression of sweetness even though the wine is vinified dry. The finish is medium-long, with a touch of lemon balm and a little green apple; alongside this it comes across as quite mineral, almost metallic – and this metallic streak is the only thing that pulls the wine down slightly for me. It already drinks superbly, and there is no reason to wait.

In Greece the Mavrosé costs around 34 euros and sells out quickly year after year at Botilia. And here lies the real punchline: the Clos Stegasta Rosé 2023, the house's top model at 58 euros, also earned 91 points from me in the same tasting – so the Mavrosé, at half the price, stands on exactly the same quality level. Of the Clos I even noted that it is "nowhere near as supple as the Mavrosé." 91 points.