Silva Daskalaki Winery – Enstikto White 2018

The Enstikto 2018 comes from higher-altitude, older vines at the biodynamically farmed Silva Daskalaki Winery – a Vidiano with 10% Chardonnay that, at 13.5% alcohol, packs more punch than the estate's single-varietal Vorinos. Ageing in new French oak shapes the wine with surprising restraint – not a trace of butter. Instead, quince and green, grassy aromas take centre stage. That said, the minerality so characteristic of Vidiano takes a bit of a back seat here. A wine that calls for heartier dishes. 90 points.