Siflogo Winery — Vardea 2021

The Vardea Amber 2021 from Siflogo Winery is a remarkable orange wine from Lefkada island, made from 100% Vardea, a grape variety that Konstantinos Lazarakis MW characterizes in "The Wines of Greece" (p. 234) as "a very neutral, low-acidity white grape." To be sure, there is quite a bit of rather typical cider aroma in the nose. However, the wine is surprisingly fruity and complex on the palate, displaying not just notes of quince but also red fruits. Good minerality with a rich and smooth texture. A very interesting introduction to Vardea, and I personally think this is one of the best orange wines that Greece has to offer if you are into a more restrained style that doesn't feel like you are drinking a mixed drink. For reference, Nico Bonkowski MW gave the 2019 vintage 87 points. For me, this 2021 vintage is a clear step up — an excellent wine that deserves 91 points.