Patistis — Matzaraki 2020

Tasted as part of a non-Santorini Assyrtiko lineup — a format we particularly enjoy — the Patistis Wines Assyrtiko Matzaraki 2020 from PGI Magnesia in Thessaly stood out as the top wine of the session. Past standouts in similar tastings have included the Areti White 2019 from Ktima Biblia Chora (PGI Pangeon) and the Assyrtiko 2019 from Olympia Winery (PGI Elia), both scoring 95 points, so the bar was high. Alongside wines from Crete, the Peloponnese, and northern Greece — including the Samonion 2021 from Ktima Toplou (PGI Lasithi, 89 points), the Petali 2021 from Diamantakis Winery (90 points), and the Lefki Poli White 2021 from Ktima Melidou (PGI Serres, 91 points) — the Matzaraki 2020 impressed everyone at the table, including those who were not otherwise fans of Patistis's Retsina. It showed a delightful structure, charming Riesling-like tannins, and a lingering, persistent flavor that set it apart from the rest of the flight. At 14.5% alcohol, this is a full-bodied Assyrtiko from the Greek mainland that rightfully earned a magnificent 93 points.