Palivou Estate — Anemos 2013

The Anemos Agiorgitiko 2013 from Palivou Vineyards (PGI Peloponnese, 100% Agiorgitiko, 12.5%). Palivou is a family estate in Ancient Nemea, founded in 1995, farming over 50 hectares organically and according to biodynamic principles. The vineyards for the Anemos are situated on the slopes of Giugiza at approximately 420–460 meters elevation, on deep clay soils. The Anemos is the estate's entry-level range — fruit-forward, with a short maceration period of only six to seven days, designed for early accessibility. Above it sit the PDO Nemea with twelve months in oak and the Ammos Terra Leone with fourteen months in new French oak and amphorae. For an entry-level wine under 10 euros, one cannot expect too much after more than a decade. It has decent extract, which serves it very well at only 12.5% alcohol, without coming across as over-extracted. But ultimately, too much of the fruit has already receded into the background, and too many oxidative notes have crept in. Aged Agiorgitiko in many cases becomes brittle, like dry wood. And that is exactly what happens with this wine, which is why we are unfortunately left with only 82 points.