Kyperounda Winery – Alma Maratheftiko 2020

Tasted as part of a Cypriot red wine line-up, the Alma from Kyperounda Winery is a single-varietal Maratheftiko. Yiannis Karakasis expressed some years ago that the Maratheftiko grape hadn't fully convinced him, and the rustic notes he described may well put off some wine drinkers. The Alma, however, shows an entirely different face of the variety. In the glass, it immediately catches the eye with a rare combination of deep violet colour and striking transparency. The nose delivers plenty of strawberry aromatics alongside violet blossom. On the palate, the wine just glides along at its modest 12.5%. Not least thanks to its good acidity, it stylistically appeals to all Pinot Noir fans who are otherwise overwhelmed by the opulence of Greek wines. To be fully convincing, though, it does lack a touch of extract. Nine months of barrique ageing lend the wine tannin, but overall it comes across as more juicy than velvety. A very good 88+ points for now, but at the same time a promise of considerable potential – possibly a real alternative to over-extracted drinking jam in the future. With a little fine-tuning, there's a lot more that can happen here. One thing definitely worth noting: while many Greek reds struggle with the classically vegetable-heavy Mediterranean kitchen and only really shine with grilled meats, this wine is a genuine option for vegetarian dishes. Savoury tarts with ratatouille and basil pesto pair beautifully – a recommendation that aligns with the assessment of expert Andreas Kyprianou.