Ktima Tselepos — Avlotopi 2017

Ktima Tselepos Avlotopi 2017, a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from PGI Tegea in the Peloponnese. When it comes to Cabernet Sauvignon from Greece, there's a curious split in perception: in Germany, many consider the Trilogia by Christos Kokkalis the quintessential Greek expression of the variety, while Greek wine enthusiasts often point to Avlotopi as the best Greek Cabernet. I've never fully understood the hype. In a blind tasting two years ago, the 2019 vintage scored only 87 points from me — the nose was fine, but the tannins were harsh with too much bitterness. The FNL Guide gave the 2013 vintage 88 points for similar reasons, though it suggested time might improve the fruit-wood balance. When Yiannis Karakasis MW tasted the 2013 four years after harvest, he also said the wine needed more time (giving it 91 points), while the 2001 vintage was considered excellent 18 years after harvest. So the pattern seems clear: Avlotopi demands patience.

Tasted at Klimataria restaurant in Athens alongside their excellent selection of cooked dishes (μαγειρευτά), the 2017 vintage had matured more than expected for its age, with a nose that felt closer to 10–15 years old. Yet on the palate, the tannins remained aggressive, paired with saltiness, slight sweetness, low acidity, and noticeable alcohol at 14.5% — a competition rather than harmony. It paired well with the meat dishes in red sauce, but I still don't quite get its appeal. Is it the rarity of a full-bodied wine with tertiary aromas in Greece, or does it, to the contrary, require even more age, suited to those with patience and cellars? Cooling the wine down brought out more primary fruit — cassis and blackberry — and at 92 points this is the best vintage of Avlotopi I've tasted yet. Not a bad result at all, especially at around 20 euros. But iconic? I don't see it. To be fair, the price doesn't claim it is.