Ktima Gerovassiliou – White 2021

Assyrtiko is the queen of Greek white wines, but it is also a team player – and this blend from Ktima Gerovassiliou pairs it in equal measure with Malagousia, a variety often pigeonholed as a bouquet grape but in reality far more flexible than that reputation suggests. The 2021 Ktima Gerovassiliou White (PGI Epanomi), a 50/50 blend of Assyrtiko and Malagousia, clearly marks the fruity end of the Assyrtiko-Malagousia spectrum, with very distinct peach aromas that you can get when you harvest early. The wine is of course not as complex as the monovarietal Malagousia that has made the winery famous, but it is still a magnificent wine that earns 93 points. Tasted alongside other Assyrtiko-Malagousia blends – the more floral and higher-acid Idea White from Barafakas Winery, the herbaceous Roggia White from Ampelones Liappa with its Greek mountain tea character, and the dense, honey-laden Ekecheiria from Olympia Gi Winery – the Gerovassiliou stood out for its pure fruit expression and approachability.