Kourtakis — Kouros Nemea 1992

The Kouros Nemea 1992 from Kourtakis (PDO Nemea, 100% Agiorgitiko, 12%) comes from another of the three great houses that shaped the Greek wine export of that era — alongside Boutari and Tsantali. Kourtakis, founded in 1895, operated as Greek Wine Cellars from 2000 onwards. Kouros Nemea was a widely marketed, accessible standard line — the Washington Post described the 1989 vintage as early as 1994 as ripe, soft, and medium-bodied, at 8 dollars at the time. Colour-wise, the 1992 still holds up reasonably well. But on the nose, the harshness so typical to me of over-aged Agiorgitiko strikes through immediately. The whole thing comes across as spirity, on the palate as well. In addition, slight metallic notes and bitterness. Lingering and disturbing on the finish. That said, some darker fruit notes still do show through, particularly plum. 78 points.