Katogi Averoff — Red 2018

This entry-level red from Katogi Averoff has been in continuous production since 1963, making it one of the oldest bottled wines in Greece. The cuvée is composed of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon plus 30% each of Merlot and Agiorgitiko ("CMA"). (Only small portions of the first variety now come from Metsovo itself, which is why the wine only carries the PGI Makedonien label.) The wine catches your eye right away. Its violet-tinged hue is not fully opaque, setting it apart from other comparable cuvées. On the nose, too, it shows notably more restraint when it comes to berry fruit. What does come through, however, are rather appealing animal notes, which find their palate analogue in a mineral undertone. The fairly high acidity is very well integrated and balances the oak (both French and American) beautifully. A downright refreshing take on a Bordeaux-style blend that deserves 90 points and the distinction of "outstanding."