Karadimos — Palaiokastra 2021

Tasted as part of a broader exploration of aromatic Assyrtiko blends from across Greece, the Karadimos Palaiokastra 2021 from Atalanti (PGI Slopes of Knimida) lets Malagousia (80%) lead the blend with Assyrtiko (20%). Combining Assyrtiko's acidity with Malagousia's diverse aromas is a logical pairing — as Ktima Gerovassiliou's house wine famously demonstrates — and Karadimos takes a decidedly Malagousia-forward approach here. The Malagousia leans toward the herbaceous end of the spectrum rather than the floral or tropical side. The palate is honeyed with good 13.5% alcohol, but balanced citrus aromas and acidity prevent the wine from becoming too sweet or heavy. Compared to the other Assyrtiko blends tasted alongside it — the outstanding Edenia Bella 2021 by Ioanna Tsilili (PGI Meteora, 94 points), the invigorating Efrosini Kleftis 2021 from Crete (86 points), and the straightforward Oenops Apla 2021 from Drama (88 points) — the Karadimos Palaiokastra strikes a particularly crowd-pleasing balance. A very enjoyable wine that earns 91 points.