Jima Winery — Plein Soleil 2023

Jima Winery's Plein Soleil "Day 22" 2023 is Debina's other pole — the skin-contact, textural counterpart to the estate's lighter, fresher Super Girl cuvée. Classified as a varietal wine (rather than under any PDO or PGI designation, since PDO Zitsa in Epirus covers only sparkling Debina), this orange wine is 50% skin-fermented in amphora, with an eight-month élevage split between neutral barrique (30%) and stainless steel (20%); all lots are kept on the lees with gentle bâtonnage (12.0% vol, RS 1.8 g/L, TA 7.2 g/L). The nose opens with a maritime breeze, crystalline quince, citrus, and green apple. On the palate, brisk acidity meets saline depth and high extract; vanilla is still a touch forward, yet the wine is thrillingly textured. At 92+ points today, this should climb to 93 or 94 as the parts knit together over time (drink now through 2033). Jima Winery previously produced Miss De Bina, a 100% Debina white that — at least in the 2021 vintage — showed effortless, silk-like elegance. That cuvée was retired in 2022 and replaced by Super Girl, which channels the grape's freshness rather than its weight. Plein Soleil sits at the opposite end of the spectrum, showcasing skin-contact power and structure. Both current wines are excellent expressions of this underrated Epirote variety, though the benchmark for Debina, to my mind, remains the quiet poise that Miss De Bina 2021 achieved so naturally. In Germany, both Plein Soleil and Super Girl are available through Wine and Nature.