Imperator Winery — Valia Calda 2019

As part of a tasting of Greek red wines made from Bordeaux varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) from the 'second tier' — wines that don't play in the league of classified Bordeaux growths but often offer very solid value for money — the Valia Calda 2019 from Imperator Winery presents itself in a decidedly ponderous manner. Already on the nose, the fruit comes through only in very dark tones, kept firmly in check by leather aromas. Once the wine hits the palate, you can't shake the association with monastery cellars suffused with incense. Despite only 13.5% alcohol, this is a heavy wine. The bone-dry character is compounded by desiccating tannins. At the moment, the wine sits at a very good 87+ points, but with refined tannins and more complex tertiary aromas, there is clearly much more to be expected in the future. Just a few years ago, a wine like this from Greece would have been hard to imagine. This is obviously wine being produced with a longer-term perspective. Whether that gamble pays off will become clear in a few years' time.