Giannikos Winery – At Sea 2019

The Roditis (Fox) grapes come from vineyards just an hour east of the PDO Patras, where this variety has its most prominent home. (As with the Agiorgitiko, Giannikos Winery sits just outside the PDO that bears the famous name for the grape – though in that case, the grapes themselves actually come from Nemea.)

An ideal summer wine with lovely lime notes and a far-carrying acidity. The wine also has a certain fruit sweetness with hints of candied fruit. As is typical for Giannikos's organic wines, though, it's not simply crowd-pleasing – restrained vegetal notes, especially fennel, bay leaf, and eucalyptus, lend it decidedly more serious ambitions. A "very good" wine at 87 points.