Domaine Spiropoulos – Porfyros 1996

As part of a tasting of Agiorgitiko cuvées, the Porfyros 1996 from Domaine Spiropoulos (PGI Peloponnes) was tasted – a wine from the organic pioneers, in which Agiorgitiko dominates, supported by international varieties (in the vintage tasted, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon; in other vintages sometimes Cabernet Franc or Syrah as well; the Agiorgitiko proportion generally appears to be around 60%). The 1996 vintage was picked up on the German secondary market – a Greek wine from before the turn of the millennium is a genuine rarity there. The nose already shows distinctly sweet-oxidative notes, and undergrowth is immediately present. On the palate, alongside mushroomy aromas, there is still clearly discernible fruit. Good acidity also continues to carry the wine. The ageing of over a year in new French oak barrels has certainly done the wine's longevity a favour, but at the same time now produces somewhat overly prominent wood aromas. On top of that, it has been observed more than once with Agiorgitiko that an initially clear fruit can turn rather brittle after a few days, which only reinforces that impression of sawdust. Still, a remarkable wine that, while already slightly past its peak, still clearly deserves a very respectable 86 points – and with that surely leaves many an excellent Cru Bourgeois from Bordeaux in its wake. The 2018 vintage can be had in Germany for a little over €10 a bottle – and then, as an experiment, laid down until 2044…