Domaine Paliomylos — Skales Varsamou 2019

The Σκάλες Βαρσάμου from Domaine Paliomylos, a PGI Ilia wine — from whom we had also previously tasted a single-varietal Moschofilero made with vines from Mantinia — is a refreshing wine that could frankly have done with a bit more warmth. The context of this tasting was a session focused on Moschofilero blends, and it was particularly unfortunate that the conditions didn't quite do the wine justice. At just 11.5% alcohol, it sits at the lower end of the spectrum in terms of the warmth that Greek wines inherently bring. On the nose, there's little trace of the heavy floral notes typical of Moschofilero, which contributes 70% of the blend here. Citrus aromas dominate — similar to the Feggaropetra from Andreou Winery, which we liked extraordinarily well. On the palate, a crisp acidity stands out. The finish is slightly metallic but not watery. You could almost think of a Riesling. Even the age — we had a 2019 in front of us — is impossible to detect. A very atypical wine for Greece, one that perhaps should be tried at the beautifully situated estate itself at 35°C in the shade. The 30% Roditis, however, does bring you back to Greece, as on the finish those oft-invoked overripe apples are fully present again. That doesn't strike us as entirely harmonious just yet. But the fact that you can make something so different from the two most important indigenous white grape varieties of the Peloponnes — that wouldn't have occurred to us before. Hence: a very good 88 points.