Domaine Hatzimichalis – Aglianico 2017

The Aglianico 2017 from Domaine Hatzimichalis (the "g" is silent in Italian, by the way) deserves an outstanding 92 points. What's characteristic here, beyond the good fruit and slightly herbal, almost medicinal notes on the nose, is above all the initial attack – a concentrated burst of mocha notes of the kind you'd normally only encounter on the finish of other wines. Add to that a very distinctive tannin structure: fine yet dynamic. At 14.5% alcohol, this wine was significantly more convincing than the Merlot of the same vintage from the same estate.

Where all this might eventually lead was demonstrated by a Taurasi 1973 from Mastroberardino, tasted side by side – a fantastic wine that, after nearly five decades, was still remarkably lively on the palate, proudly held upright by a fully intact tannin framework. Will the Aglianico from Domaine Hatzimichalis be equally fantastic in four or five decades? One can only speculate. Eighteen months in oak certainly speak to a degree of ambition.

Domaine Hatzimichalis did pioneering work in the 1980s when it came to establishing single-varietal wines. To this day, the portfolio continues to be refined. And that now includes bringing this ancient Greek grape variety – which left its Greek motherland for Italy some 2,500 years ago to such great effect – back home.