Domaine Economou — Assyrtiko Phi 2017

The 2017 Assyrtiko "Phi" from Domaine Economou comes from old, organically farmed vines in the high-altitude vineyards of Ziros, Katsidoni, and Etia in eastern Crete. Fermentation is spontaneous with indigenous yeasts, and, true to the estate's minimalist philosophy, there's no fining or filtration. The wine is matured in large, neutral oak barrels with a deliberately oxidative approach. If you're familiar with Economou's regular Assyrtiko, the oxidative style here won't come as a surprise. Still, the nose offers something quite different — none of the usual dried fruits lifted by quince. Instead, it's a freakshow for lovers of petrol aromas, something you'd typically expect only from aged Riesling. Those who aren't into that will need to let it breathe, and then more honey emerges. On the palate, you'll find beeswax, apricot, and a range of herbs. But what really sets the wine apart is its elegant, almost austere structure. The finish is fine, yet long. Personally, I've never been a fan of the saline blockbusters from Santorini. If you want an Assyrtiko that asks for your attention, this is a fantastic choice. At €74.99 (via Wine & Nature), it is fairly priced. Still, I prefer Assyrtiko with a bit more fruit — fresh or dried — which is why this lands at 93+ points rather than higher.