Magoutes Vineyard – Parcel Selection Xinomavro 2017

This single-varietal Xinomavro from Magoutes Vineyard comes from ungrafted, head-trained bush vines – some over a century old – in the PGI Siatista appellation, at 845–890 meters above sea level. Yields are tiny, just 0.5 to 1.5 kg per vine. Grapes are hand-harvested and undergo spontaneous maceration fermentation for 30–40 days in large French oak vats, then are raised for 12–24 months in used 500-litre barrels. The wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered, with only minimal added sulfur.

Visually, it shows a surprisingly pale hue. On the nose, however, it is intensely aromatic, with notes of overripe tomato and a distinct vegetal character – think red beet.

On the palate, it reveals an absolutely unique acidity profile, beautifully softened by prominent malolactic development, all supported by a fine tannic framework. This interplay makes it a superb companion to food: it really shines at the table, supporting meaty and fatty dishes perfectly.

The finish is memorable too – roses and cherries linger long after the last sip.

For many enthusiasts, this wine is the ultimate Xinomavro secret, and indeed it eclipses many better-known bottlings from Naoussa. Its quality easily merits 93 points. That said, at over 50 euros per bottle (available in Germany through wineandnature), the price reflects the vineyard's uniqueness but also invites comparison with the great single-vineyard Naoussa bottlings. Having tasted both the Thymiopoulos Vineyards Vrana Petra 2017 and the Thymiopoulos Vineyards Kayafas 2017 in recent months, I'd say both offer far greater complexity, and at least the Kayafas does so at a quite similar price point. Yet at the dinner table, I'd honestly reach for the Magoutes Parcel Selection again – it simply pairs better with food. For pure, casual drinking, however, it's not my go-to Xinomavro.