Clos Manou — Clos Manou 2019

The Clos Manou 2019 from the Médoc is the legendary garage wine project of Stéphane and Françoise Dief, launched in 1998 with 600 bottles, now a cult name in the northern Médoc. Planting density is 9,000 to 10,000 vines per hectare, with yields capped at a maximum of 500 grams per vine. The estate includes a historic Merlot parcel dating back to the 1850s that survived phylloxera.

The 2019 is blended in near-perfect parity: 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc. 14.5% alcohol. Aged in 70% new French barriques for 17 months, plus 25% concrete eggs and 5% terracotta jars.

On the nose, the Clos Manou is surprisingly restrained at first — especially compared to the other wines in a blind tasting. On the palate, though, it lays it on quite thick structurally, with a decent amount of fruit to back it up. Despite the near-equal blend, very varietal-typical cassis aromas come through. Lots of blackberry too — though in a very jammy style that you have to be into, especially paired with that sluggish nose. The finish constantly feels like it's about to take off but never quite leaves the starting blocks; it gets stuck in earthy notes, the tannins still holding it back. 92+ points, with clear potential for improvement. Can be cautiously opened from this year, but ideally wait until 2027.