Antoniou Winery – Santorini 1994
PDO Santorini
80% Assyrtiko, 15% Aidani, 5% Athiri
Cyclades, Greece
White | dry
The 1994 Santorini from Antoniou Winery is a truly extraordinary wine that had several members of our tasting panel whispering "100 points" in hushed reverence. Antoniou is a boutique winery on Santorini, established in 1992, making this one of their earliest releases. The wine is a harmonious blend of 80% Assyrtiko, 15% Aidani, and 5% Athiri. Unearthing a dry white Greek wine that remains not just drinkable but thoroughly enjoyable after nearly three decades is no small feat, and this bottle has not only endured the passage of time but has done so with remarkable elegance. While it may not have been the most coveted wine of its vintage, I can say with confidence that I've rarely encountered a bottle of this age, be it from Greece or elsewhere, in such pristine condition – there was not a hint of ullage. As we poured the wine, our expectations were accordingly pretty high, and the wine exceeded them all. It unfurled a delightful aroma of hazelnut and apricot, absolutely pure, devoid of any off-notes. The epitome of deliciousness. On the palate, it was still impressively robust. Its good acidity and salinity provided excellent structure, and an amazingly long aftertaste made each sip an unforgettable experience. Even with a conservative evaluation, this is a phenomenal wine, deserving of at least 98 points. It truly attests to the enduring allure of Greek wines. I find myself yearning for a taste of the Antoniou Santorini Barrel version that reportedly exists – a tantalizing thought given how magnificent this unoaked bottling turned out to be.
Tasted: 2023