Alpha Estate – Alpha One 2019

Alpha One is not a fixed cuvée but rather a best-of, freshly assembled each year from the finest 17 barrels in the cellar. The grape composition shifts accordingly, and dynamically so: in 2015 it was 70 percent Montepulciano and 30 percent Tannat, in 2016 eighty percent Merlot with Tannat, in 2017 a single-varietal Merlot, in 2018 then 55 percent Xinomavro and 45 percent Montepulciano – and in the 2019 it is 60 percent Xinomavro, 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 20 percent Merlot.

I tasted it blind, and from the very first sniff I actually thought of S.M.X. – only it wouldn't quite fit any vintage. The proportions explain it: S.M.X. is 60 percent Syrah, 20 Xinomavro, 20 Merlot; here we have 60 Xinomavro, 20 Cabernet, 20 Merlot. The same split, a different lead variety.

One can't help wondering what would emerge if the estate blended Cabernet and Merlot without Xinomavro – the quality of these two building blocks is clearly evident here. But with Xinomavro dominating at 60 percent, no one would think of Bordeaux.

The nose is incredibly energetic, meaty, surging off in many directions. On the palate very powerful and direct, an almost unique interplay of perfect acidity and a tannin that shows strength without hindering the aromatics in any way. This gives it structure for several decades. A potpourri of aromas: berries, beetroot, clove. A very, very serious wine.

The maturation is unusual: 36 months exclusively in new wood, described by the estate as "200 percent new oak" – after 18 months the wine moves into a second set of new barrels and matures there for a further 18 months, plus eight months on the fine lees. After that, 24 months of bottle age, filled unfiltered. There are 4,582 bottles of the 2019, plus 150 magnums and 30 double magnums.

Amyndeon is the coldest highland in Greece, and for the late-ripening Xinomavro the risk lurking there is otherwise not reaching full ripeness. For me, 2019 rates a red 8.5 out of 10 for Amyndeon. The wine is classified as PGI Florina, and that is mandatory: the PDO Amyndeon requires single-varietal Xinomavro for reds, while this blend carries 40 percent Cabernet and Merlot.

I don't often have the Alpha One in my glass, last time a few years ago – but this 2019 is the best vintage I've encountered so far. Around 69 euros. For me, that's 96 points.