A Side Glance at Cyprus

While this website is dedicated specifically to wine from Greece, the long shared history alone means we naturally want to cast a side glance at Cyprus every now and then.

And the first thing we set our eyes on today is a rosé from the native varieties Lefkada (80%) and Mavro (20%), the Akti 2021 from Kyperounda Winery.

The name of the first variety is misleading - one immediately thinks of white wine (cf. λευκός = "white"). This blend, however, is not a mix of red and white wine. Lefkada is in fact a red variety with quite remarkable colouring matter and simply takes its name from the island of the same name, where it originates. With "Mavro", on the other hand, the etymology holds true again. So two dark varieties, but extracted very gently, yielding a rosé almost in the Provence style. On the nose, though, it is more expressive, above all fruitier. Peach dominates the aromatics. On the palate, the carbon dioxide unfortunately still interferes considerably at the moment; the flavour development remains largely hidden behind it. Retasting the next day, however, shows that this is a wine to be taken quite seriously, one that knows how to challenge with its herbal side. A very good wine at 16 points, and surely many who like this style will fall in love with it. More on rosé from Cyprus can be read here.

Next, we turn to Cypriot red wine. Ktima Anaxagora sent us the 2018 and 2019 vintages of their single-varietal Maratheftiko, and we tasted them last year.

The 2019 impressed back then with rich dark fruit, above all blackberry, on the nose. Added to that, however, was a rather sharp alcohol at actually only 13.5% - and with it a slightly medicinal impression. Oak shows itself with quite subtle smoky notes. On the palate, a pleasantly dense but unfortunately still (that is, in 2021 at least) somewhat unripe tannin dominates. On the positive side, aromatics of Amarena cherries weave themselves in. All in all, a rather well-balanced wine takes shape here, for the acidity is entirely appropriate. The wine deserves an excellent 16.5 points.

Even better, though, is the 2018. Whether the 2019 will match its daring with more maturity remains to be seen. In the wine one year its senior, the more animal notes stand out at first, though their unpleasant components soon evaporate. On the palate, coffee and vanilla aromatics overlap. Among the fruit, plum dominates. Admittedly, the stylistically quite similar Katogi Averoff comes across rounder and more pleasing overall, while also having that pleasantly challenging dimension. And yet: the oak fascinates us here a touch more. Leather, wet undergrowth, a little coffee. That deserves an excellent 17 points. Fundamentally there is even more in this wine. What it lacks, though, is a little of the balance that would allow one to perceive the complexity properly. As mentioned: whether the 2019 represents a step in the right direction remains to be seen.

Yiannis Karakasis expressed a few years ago that the Maratheftiko grape had not yet fully convinced him. The "rustic" notes he mentions may well put off some wine drinkers in the Anaxagora wine too. But before they allow themselves a verdict on Maratheftiko, they should at least try the Alma from Kyperounda Winery.

In the glass, this wine immediately stands out with a rare combination of a rich violet hue on the one hand and great transparency on the other. The nose meets plenty of strawberry aromatics plus a scent of violets. On the palate, the wine simply glides along with its 12.5%. Not least thanks to its good acidity, its style commends itself to all Pinot Noir fans otherwise overwhelmed by the opulence of Greek wines. To convince entirely, though, a touch of extract is missing after all. Nine months of barrique ageing lend the wine tannin, but overall it is juicy rather than velvety. So far a very good 16 points, but at the same time the promise of a great deal of potential - possibly, in future, a real alternative to over-extracted drinking jam. With a little polish, much can still happen here. Noteworthy in any case: while many Greek reds fail at classic Mediterranean cuisine - which is really vegetable-heavy - and can only play to their strengths with grilled dishes, here you have a genuine option for vegetarian food. We had made savoury tarts with ratatouille and basil pesto to go with it - and saw in hindsight that we had intuitively come very close to the expert recommendation (Andreas Kyprianou has written an interesting piece on this). We can certainly pass those on.

Before we come to the whites, at least one more dark variety should be mentioned, Mavro Ampelisimo, of which the Santa Irene winery sent us the Laxia 2019.

Here a very clear, perhaps even slightly too linear, cherry fruit approaches the nose. In the background, a little wax also plays a part. On the palate, the oak then shows itself with very fine toast and vanilla aromas. The tannin structure is soft as in a Merlot. One would actually think that a wine about which one can only speak briefly cannot be rated very highly. But this one is simply that good. Hence a great 17.5 points - and at under €10 an unbelievable price-performance ratio.

But now to the whites of Cyprus. First up is the Xynisteri 2020 from Ktima Anaxagora.

On the nose, this wine showed itself very elegant at last year's tasting. No overripe tones whatsoever. Instead: rhubarb, peach and elderflower. On the palate, the wine then takes a very complex course. At first it is very mouth-filling, though at only 12.5% not lastingly creamy. For a truly elegant style it unfortunately has a little too little structure, even if a late peak of acidity does arrive after all. In the - admittedly surprisingly long - aftertaste it is then unfortunately somewhat metallic. Without doubt a fascinating wine, but one that ultimately still needs to settle. We give a very good 16 points and are curious where the journey leads.

Anyone wishing to try Xynisteri in a completely different guise might reach for the Vounoplagia 2019 from Santa Irene.

Here the overripe notes stand out immediately, above all quince. Floral notes, too, lend the wine a certain weight, with corn poppy first to mind. But then herbs like mint and a hint of eucalyptus join in, so that the wine nevertheless radiates freshness. On the palate this wine is demanding, partly through its tannin. The acidity, by contrast, is pleasant, the 13.5% alcohol very well in balance. On the finish the wine is invigorating. It positively suggests itself as a complex food companion. Especially exciting: 20% is aged in amphorae ("pitharia"). This blog post has some lovely photos. From us it receives an excellent 16.5 points.

How well Xynisteri responds to different vinification and how much potential lies in the variety is ultimately shown by the Petritis 2020 from Kyperounda Winery.

In this wine from PGI Lemesos, plenty of fruit sweetness reaches the palate before the oak gradually works its way to the fore. The wine is many-layered and playful at once, without this detracting from its drinkability. Grown at great heights, the wine arrives with 13% alcohol that suits it very well. On the nose the wine is a little shy - otherwise it would be truly great. Even so, we arrive at an excellent 17 points.

Wine from Cyprus is a subject of its own. But even this brief side glance was extremely instructive for us. We look forward to learning even more about these wines in the future!